OffsetGuitars.com

hello

i have a 60 jazz ,unfort refin natural , from what i think was a blonde 
you can see the date 3/60 (is this march 60 ? )
and for what stands the 4 in the neck cavity ?

i think with the nice grain in the wood it would look beautiful in blonde no?

where do i start with this ?
any url about refin guitars?


http://www.picturetrail.com/uid4689265

d

I officially hate the 70's   

are you looking to do the job yourself or have it done professionally?

tsalwel wrote: hello

i have a 60 jazz ,unfort refin natural , from what i think was a blonde 
you can see the date 3/60 (is this march 60 ? )
and for what stands the 4 in the neck cavity ?

i think with the nice grain in the wood it would look beautiful in blonde no?

where do i start with this ?
any url about refin guitars?


http://www.picturetrail.com/uid4689265

d

Nice JM tsalwel!  While looking at it, my first reaction was that it's not ash. However, looking closer at the grain, I'm not sure.  I also couldn't tell if the finish in the cavities is transluscent or not. It almost looked like Oly White to me. So it's hard to say, both of these factors would tell for sure one way or the other.

Anyway, blonde was only applied over ash, and ash was only used for blonde finishes, so that's the definitive way to tell. The grain of ash is (usually) much bolder than alder, and the wood is quite porous.Therefore, blonde is more difficult to refin, because the grain in the ash must be filled at least 4 times (well, It's not really all that difficult, but it IS time-consuming).

Regardless, that's a nice JM and all the parts look good. If the worst case is that it was Oly White, you're still way good!

The best info I've ever seen on colors is on Clay Harrell's website. You've probably seen it, but if not:

http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fenderc.html


Also, there's good info on the reranch site:

www.reranch.com


good luck!

Yes, 3/60 is March 1960.

Also, '4' is the code for Jazzmaster, though I've never seen it on a body. Maybe before they started using the stamps on the neck, they wrote it in the cavity? I don't know. But it's the right number anyway....

hi fulli



i should think that with oly white you can no longer read the pencil numbers on the body no ?

thanks for the link of the reranch

anyone dont know yet about provide .net ?

d

daydreamdelay wrote: I officially hate the 70's   

are you looking to do the job yourself or have it done professionally?

i think this one is more a case of a totaly beat up jz
there is absolutly NO more paint on the neck ( plays like a dream )
when i got it first there was a huge " clunk " every time i used the trem

i opened it couldend find any problem just tightend up the spring and all of a sudden i was unable to use the trem
it was like 20cm from the body
so a had to bend it to the body again
now working fine
this guy ( on the neckplate i can read something like " ed... oer  east liverpool ohio" ) must have had hands as grizzly

if its technicaly possible i like to do it myself  but if to complicated  ---> projob

d

tsalwel wrote:

daydreamdelay wrote: I officially hate the 70's   

are you looking to do the job yourself or have it done professionally?

i think this one is more a case of a totaly beat up jz
there is absolutly NO more paint on the neck ( plays like a dream )
when i got it first there was a huge " clunk " every time i used the trem

i opened it couldend find any problem just tightend up the spring and all of a sudden i was unable to use the trem
it was like 20cm from the body
so a had to bend it to the body again
now working fine
this guy ( on the neckplate i can read something like " ed... oer   east liverpool ohio" ) must have had hands as grizzly

if its technicaly possible i like to do it myself  but if to complicated  ---> projob

d

as far as the 70's I meant the brown stain finish.. seems to be the time that was a popular choice

if you want to do it yourself I'm sure there's a few people here that can help advise you.. also read up and ask questions over at the reranch forum. like Doug said, if it's ash it'll be a bit more work as you have to seal the body after stripping/sanding.

fwiw.. I read everything there was to read, asked loads of questions, and ultimately decided to have a pro.. or semi pro.. do the job for me. Not saying you should do that too but before you start buying everything there is to buy make sure you read up on every step and be sure you want to go through with it. I decided I try my first time on a non vintage guitar.


http://www.guitarrefinishing.com/

"like Doug said, if it's ash it'll be a bit more work as you have to seal the body after stripping/sanding"

To clarify, any type of body would need a sealer coat after sanding. I meant that ash has to be "grain filled" multiple times (prior to sealing).

While grain filler is used on any wood, it is particulary important on ash and mahogany (open-pore grain). The filler is spread on like bondo, and in fact, smells a bit like bondo. It goes on white, but dries clear. It needs to be sanded once dry, then applied again and sanded, and again.... and again. If you're lucky, four times should be sufficient for ash, but each body will vary depending on the grain and how thick each coat is. When done properly, the grain can still be seen, but not felt.

As you sand it, you can see the low spots as they stay shiny as you cut the gloss off the high spots. The goal is to identify and fill the low spots until the grain filler is level.  It's tedious, but will provide a good even surface. It really makes the difference between a good refin and a hack job.

Once filled and leveled, now you apply the sealer.

i should think that with oly white you can no longer read the pencil numbers on the body no ?

The numbers were written over top of opaque finishes. But...

... the closer I look, it does look like ash. I think I can see the grain as well. I'd have to look at it in person to determine definitively, but from the photos I would have to agree with you. That makes at least 3 pre-CBS ash JMs on the board!

ooops sorry Doug, I meant to quote you and hit the edit tab by mistake


anyway I should've clarified that myself.. I always think of that as part of sealing there for just call it sealing. but yeah, what Doug said. also spread it and work it into the wood quickly as I've heard it dries really fast and can be tough to sand down

thanks fulli & daydream

what i fear the most is not the labour but the amont of scratches & dings !
the back looks like it was overridden by a russian  euh TT34   ;)

i guess that they all must be removed no?
but doesnt that changes the guitar to much

any good pros in europe ?
sometimes i noticed these guys from london on ebay ( cant rember the name )

d