I picked this up cheap on ebay - it's branded EROS, but essentially the same as an Aria Diamond 1802T. A white one of these was what originally inspired the first Motorik.
It's in pretty shitty condition, and I was going to just part it out and keep the trem and pickups, but where's the fun in that? The plan is to get this nicely playable without spending any money - just using up spares I have lying around in the workshop.
First thing I noticed when I got it was that someone has seen fit to install LEDs on the guard in the shape of a cross (?), and there are a couple of extra switches and knobs, one of which has a snapped shaft.
Quite why someone would want a cross lighting up on their pickguard is a mystery, especially on a guitar named after the Greek god of sex. Not the first icon you'd expect to see in the hands of an evangelical christian...
A quick peek under the hood and I had instant flashbacks to Motorik I
Two battery clips - I tested one and it lit half the cross - nothing happened with the other. I'll investigate further later on.
Also, a couple of the intonation screws were, er, unusual. Really filthy bridge. I took it all to bits, polished it up and lubricated it. Also, I took out all the old intonation screws and re-tapped the saddle threads for some M3 screws I had to hand.
"Custom" - no shit. Most of the black paint came off the logo when I polished the headstock, so it's gold now.
There were no tuners, so I decided to put in a set of reissue Fs I have lying around. It had had similar before, which had replaced the originals. None of the holes were in quite the right place, so I toothpicked them with superglue.
Then snipped them flush, scraped them level, then wet sanded up to 2000 and polished back to a shine with T-cut.
Marked and drilled for the new tuners:
The frets were almost down to the board in places - not even worth stringing it up to check. I heated them with a big soldering gun until the mojo started to bubble, then prised one end up with a stanley knife blade enough to squeeze my pullers underneath.
Not a pretty sight, but at least not much chipping from the removal.
Then I sanded the board level with its original 9.5" radius, not too much, but enough to put a new surface on all but the deepest finger depressions and prepare a good surface for the frets.
All polished up and ready for re-fretting:
Cool indeed!
more over this way you escape the truss rod accident 
cause of the router to make radius and 2 for the binding ,cause mine is very rought and yours seems to be very clean ?
