Help w/MIJ Jaguar Special HH

[mwothe]

Hi Everyone, lurker here but I thought I'd join you nuts like me.

I just got my hand on a MIJ Jaguar Special HH, it is very similar to the Kurt Cobain NOS model except the controls on the "lower bout" look like a three-slider switch plate with a toggle switch mounted in one of the slider holes. The KC model has one toggle and one switch. I thought perhaps someone just put this together for some reason but I've been assured it came from the japan factory this way. It also does not have gotoh sealed tuners or the "spaghetti" logo. Does anyone know a good way to ID this model and then either a diagram or description of what the controls do? Some are obvious but some sound like they might even be phase switches, none seem to operate like other jaguars I've played, and some seem to do nothing regardless of the "circuit" chosen by the slider on the upper mount (On this guitar, the circuit beside the pickup toggle circuit merely turns both pickups on full with volume of each controlled by the two wheels also on the upper bout.

Another question I have about this guitar involves the tremolo. When I got it it didn't have bar so I ordered one specifically for a "japanese jaguar". It fits but you can only bend down a quarter tone at most because the bar is so close to the face of the guitar. Now, I am a little afraid to take it apart, but the trem-lock switch moves but doesn't engage. Is there a possibility that the assembly underneath is "under" where it would need to be to engage with the lock, thus making the whole thing already facing forward enough to make the trem bar almost touch the guitar?

I'm going to try to upload some photos that could probably explain this better. It's a great playing guitar, action is quite low and very infectious neck. Glad this forum is out here for those of us that love us some OSG!

Ree

[daemon]

First off, the trem arm is no big deal. I had the same problem with my MIJ Jag. All you need to do is bend it a bit with vice grips or something (using a towel so as not to scratch it, obviously). As far as what it is, it doesn't look like any MIJ that I've ever seen. Even going back through the catalogs to 2000, there is nothing in there like that. I really looks like a Cobain Jag with an extra toggle switch on the lower control plate, like you said. What does the headstock look like? I've had good luck sending serial numbers to consumerrelations@fender.com, so you may want to try that as well.

[amv]

Can you post some pictures of the headstock and a clearer shot of the body (and lower control plate?) That'll make it easier to narrow down which model this is.

Also, to be clear about the post above, he's saying to bend the arm itself. It's a really quick fix; you bend the arm so that it doesn't angle towards the body so much when attached and that's it. Really simple, really common, and totally non-destructive to the trem unit itself.

[otis]

As far as your trem problem is concerned, did you try to adjust the trem screw? (the screw in the middle)
If you loosen the screw the trem-arm will get more clearance and the metal plate will come upwards. Regularly try if it touches when you move the trem-lock. It should just touch. During this proces regularly tune your strings because the altering force of the trem-spring will detune them drastically.
Don't know, but reading your post I had the impression maybe you weren't aware of the way an offset-trem works.

[mwothe]

What does the headstock look like? I've had good luck sending serial numbers to consumerrelations@fender.com, so you may want to try that as well.

Here's the front and back of the headstock, the MIJ and serial are at the heel.








I sent the serial # to the email daemon suggested so hopefully that will shed some light on its origins and age.

Another pic of the lower controls. The toggle acts as a normal pickup selector when the single slider on the top bout is down. The switch furthest from the toggle seems to make the bridge pup single (up) and double coil (down). I can't figure out what the switch closest to the toggle does. The toggle switch itself isn't oriented up and down, but front (neck) and back (bridge). The way the switch is installed it can't be rotated. This hasn't served to cause much of a problem, although I have accidentally switched to neck pup a coupe of times while not paying attention.





It's really cool and I think I got a great deal, getting this and a nice rectangular hard case for it in trade for a Hanson Chicagoan, a 335-type guitar worth $5-600. I'm pretty sure that the bridge pup is a Super Distortion or a very close approximation.

Don't know, but reading your post I had the impression maybe you weren't aware of the way an offset-trem works./quote]

Honestly I don't know the ins and outs of the trem so you are correct . Your suggestion about the adjustment screw was something I did not know--it was very "loose" and adjusting it did move the arm position a little, but as I continued to adjust it clockwise it came to a point where it was harder to turn and when I lowered the strings back down to tune it was really tight and unresponsive. I found a position in the middle somewhere where it feels great but the arm is still too close to the body. I think I will just bend the arm as suggested. The lock is still not functional, but I don't care that much outside of it being a downer if I break a string. Anyone know if there's a sticky or somewhere else that has instructions for the innards of the trem? I want to take a look at the insides when I change strings, but it would be cool to have a diagram or something to look at while it's still strung.

As far as the knobs I found that the front knob is volume for the neck, back for the bridge, and the middle I honestly can't tell you what it does.

Thanks everyone for the input!

Ree

[HNB]

Not sure that body is Japanese. It has the tremolo moved up closer to the bridge. I think only the classic player HH was like that with a TOM. Maybe someone put a Jaguar Special neck on a Classic Player body and changed plates? Could be a partcaster.

[HNB]

Another option is the stop tail could have been pulled and the body could have been routed for a tremolo. Would explain it being closer to the bridge to cover the stop tail holes? Would have to remove the tremolo to check.

[mwothe]

Not sure that body is Japanese. It has the tremolo moved up closer to the bridge. I think only the classic player HH was like that with a TOM. Maybe someone put a Jaguar Special neck on a Classic Player body and changed plates? Could be a partcaster.

Yeah it's really apparent when looking at how short the distance is between the tailpiece and the bridge. I don't think you could fit a Buzzstop in there because of the severe angle, and I have seen them on other Jaguars. I think I would like to see if there is a replacement roller bridge that would fit. although the tuning is remarkably stable with some moderate usage of the trem.

Ree

[frelonvert]

Iep, the japanese KC jaguar is different: Vintage tremolo placement, bindings, trussroad acces at the heel.

HNB should be right... CP jag body + jaguar special neck.
To make sure, you could watch the neck pocket... on a MIM CP jag tne neck pocket is angled.

[andy_tchp]

Yep, parts guitar.

It seems doing 'Teh Kurtz' mods on Jaguars was a popular thing to do for a while.

[mwothe]

Here's what Fender says:

Serial number T070713 matches a Jaguar HH that was completed in May of 2009 and the specs are below.

Model Name: Jaguar® HH
Model Number: 025-9200-(306)
Series: Special Edition Series
Body: Alder
Neck: Maple, “C” Shape, (Gloss Urethane Finish)
Fingerboard: Rosewood, 7.25” Radius (184 mm)
Frets: 22 Vintage Style Frets
Scale Length: 24” (610 mm)
Nut: 1.650” (42 mm)
Hardware: Chrome
Machine Heads: Fender®/Gotoh® Vintage Style Tuning Machines
Bridge: Vintage Style Adjusto-MaticTM Bridge with Anchored Tailpiece
Pickguard: 3-Ply Black
Pickups: 2 Special Design MIJ Dragster Humbucking Pickups (Neck & Bridge)
Pickup Switching: 2-On/Off Slide Switches, One for Each Pickup
Controls: “Lead” Circuit:
2-Position Tone Switch,
Volume,
Tone,
“Rhythm” Circuit:
Volume,
Tone,
Circuit Selector Switch
Colors: (300) 3 Tone Sunburst, (Urethane Finish)
Strings: Fender Super 250R, Nickel Plated Steel,
Gauges: (.010, .013, .017, .026, .036, .046), p/n 073-0250-006
Case: None
Other Features: Matching Painted Headstock, Chrome Control Knobs, Chrome Pickup Covers, Black Plastic Bezels
Source: Japan
Accessories: None
U.S. MSRP: $1,099.99
INTRODUCED: 1/2005
DISCONTINUED: 2/2014



I guess I'm not sure what that means, either the neck was put on a different body or maybe, like HNB suggested, this is just modded with the switching, pups and vibrato added and moved up to cover up the hardtail holes? I will have to take a look under the plate. The pickups are not the Dragsters either, I'm pretty sure they are DiMarzio but I sent them an email to ask if they could verify.

Regardless, thanks for the input. I really enjoy playing it and it sounds great for a rock guitar. I don't play much Nirvana but it's got a really thick overdriven sound that I can only describe as "rock". There aren't super-useful clean sounds but I have other guitars for that. I love the scale and the vibrato works well.

Rock on!

[HNB]

I am guessing the body was routed for the tremolo since the sheet says anchored tailpiece. (The normal TOM with stop tail like Gibson does and the HH Japanese Jaguars are normally like.)

[amv]

Interestingly, when I upped the brightness on that picture of the lower control plate, it looks Japanese to me (the plate itself; I realize the knobs are different). I just posted an unsolicited lecture in another thread about the difference in shape and angle between US and MIJ control plates, and it does have some of the Japanese characteristics. Then again, reflections and lighting conditions can easily throw that kind of analysis way off.

However, I don't think it's impossible that someone started with this:



After all, we've already got that neck, the body features the same general finish, bridge, control layout and pickup routing, and I think the holes from the stop-tail would be covered after routing a hole for a trem, which isn't an uncommon mod for hardtail offsets.

I'm just presenting this as a competing possibility. Detective work is fun!

[amv]

BTW, as much as I hate stop tails and TOMs, the more I look at that picture the more I have to admit that is a REALLY slick looking Jag (or anti-Jag, as it were).

[Soggasaurus]

For reference, here's my MIJ Jag HH. It's been modded a little but the basic layout is unchanged. The neck stamp and headstock look pretty much identical to yours so I'd say that's at least pulled from the stock version. The bridge looks the same too, I'm not sure what the radius on yours is but I think 7.25 Adjustomatics are pretty unique to these guitars so if the action is consistent across all strings chances are that's stock too. Because of the black finish om mine I can't make out how many pieces of wood the body is made of, but judging by the consistent grain on yours it could well be the MIJ body because I think those use fewer pieces than the Mexican versions.

The rest, probably not so close to stock. The controls on the stock MIJ HH operate like a normal Jag: Rhythm circuit with volume and tone wheels on the top and lead controls with neck, bridge, and hi-pass toggles toward the neck and volume and tone pots near the jack. I'd agree with the posters who have noted that electronically someone probably tried to make a Cobain Jag before Fender did.

All the tech mumbo jumbo aside, that's a great looking guitar! I love the neck on mine, so at least they didn't Kudtz'ify that!