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So, I've been playing a Vm jaguar for about a year and haven't really experienced all these bridge woes. I play with 13's tuned standard and aside from minor tuning stability issues (All my other guitars have floyds) I've had no qualms that a little graphite and three in one oil couldn't fix. I find the return to pitch is pretty spot on for a non-locking trem. Although finding the spring/ string tension balance was a bit hard without the lock that the fender's have. Is this odd? Will this eventually crap out? Or will this continue to be one of my favorite trems?

NecroDork wrote:So, I've been playing a Vm jaguar for about a year and haven't really experienced all these bridge woes. I play with 13's tuned standard and aside from minor tuning stability issues (All my other guitars have floyds) I've had no qualms that a little graphite and three in one oil couldn't fix. I find the return to pitch is pretty spot on for a non-locking trem. Although finding the spring/ string tension balance was a bit hard without the lock that the fender's have. Is this odd? Will this eventually crap out? Or will this continue to be one of my favorite trems?

No its completely wrong that its actually working faultlessly. The trem is great, most of us find it great and to stay in tune better than strats, floyds etc. but only after the bridge is fixed...those i know use these including myself say they forget to tune for two weeks, and its usually still spot on...except afterwards they strum a big chord and the strings fall off the saddles so its then ruined, but no once that's sorted i'd say its the experience of most...its the bridge that has issues, but you are just a lucky minority not to have them (maybe they are all really light players?), oh and except the arm holder but trem issues aren't that common compared to most guitars...

I experienced the string jumping when the stock (9's I'm assuming) strings were on it. I usually play with 12-60's but I figured 13-65's would make up for the shorter scale slack in the strings. The tension seems to keep the strings pretty well seated. I'm a bit heavy handed, so I don't rate the light player comment. Truly odd, I suppose. I read about all the products, mastery bridge, buzz stops, etc. I don't get it. My bridge did buzz a bit when I first got it, but turns out the height screws weren't even on the high e saddle. Got em lined up, and problem solved. I dunno. There's gotta be other folks on here that like the bridge as is. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

I have a Jazzmaster but, I love the bridge as is. I've never had any issues. I use heavy flats, pick with my fingers and have an incredibly light touch though. I think just high gauges make it work though. More people should use higher gauges anyway

theletterJ wrote:I have a Jazzmaster but, I love the bridge as is. I've never had any issues. I use heavy flats, pick with my fingers and have an incredibly light touch though. I think just high gauges make it work though. More people should use higher gauges anyway

The light touch is definitely helping....!! I try to play light, but it's tough to do especially when playing shows.

Has anyone else tried this bridge.
I bought one for £5.94 free p&p off ebay just to try.
Seems ok.



Used blue loctite just in case.

STRAT'71 wrote:Has anyone else tried this bridge.
I bought one for £5.94 free p&p off ebay just to try.
Seems ok.



Used blue loctite just in case.

What bridge is it? or what seller is it?

Can you post a pic from above showing the strings over the neck and pickups?

Great job here!!! One tip that might not be everybody's cup of tea is one that works for the aggressive player with stock bridge/saddles. Intonate with the bridge slammed back towards the trem. It will still rock, though a bit less, it returns most of the time requiring only a quick slam backwards when onstage. I'm a very heavy hand on the trem and I find this technique preserves intonation, preserves the loosey goosey feel of a JM trem and the sound with very little compromise and zero cash outlay. Just one more way to go amongst the many that work just fine.

Anyone ever just shoved a piece of rolled up card under the bridge on one side?

I do what the previous poster does but still bridge moves, especially after a shim to fix other issues due to the angle of force from the strings and generally being able to play it properly with force now. I wanted to remove having to 'slam it backwards' after every song or when i'm trying to hit behind the bridge notes.

Got sick of the bridge always resting towards the headstock after playing, which is annoying for tuning/intonation, BTB, and for some reason just doesn't sound as good as the bridge pushed back. I like the rocking so this just gives a little pressure to stop the bridge leaning the wrong way, and just compresses like a spring with trem use.

I must do something a bit more permanent such as a true spring, or something in the mute hole, even just to stop the bridge hard where the rocking stops to prevent it a screw would do.

jorri wrote:Anyone ever just shoved a piece of rolled up card under the bridge on one side?

I do what the previous poster does but still bridge moves, especially after a shim to fix other issues due to the angle of force from the strings and generally being able to play it properly with force now. I wanted to remove having to 'slam it backwards' after every song or when i'm trying to hit behind the bridge notes.

Got sick of the bridge always resting towards the headstock after playing, which is annoying for tuning/intonation, BTB, and for some reason just doesn't sound as good as the bridge pushed back. I like the rocking so this just gives a little pressure to stop the bridge leaning the wrong way, and just compresses like a spring with trem use.

I must do something a bit more permanent such as a true spring, or something in the mute hole, even just to stop the bridge hard where the rocking stops to prevent it a screw would do.

You like the hardware store. Wrap a small section of duct tape around the posts to reduce the rocking.

To be clearer i don't want it to stop rocking, just to stop shifting to the neck side with playing.

so i suppose the obvious answer is tape on one side...

But I shoved some bits of old string in there to block it completely, zero movement and i kind of like the extra resonance and fundamental clarity. I'm immediately noticing i have to tune more often though even adding graphite. The trem is definately less trippy too.

Give the tape thing a try. The bridge still rocks but doesn't lock to one side or the other and trem still works as before. I had to experiment a bit before getting the right amount of tape on there so there is still movement. I guess it's a taste thing. Easy and inexpensive mod though.

yep it worked, i still push the bridge back occasionally, but tape is on one side. I like it tilted back but have prevented it tilting forwards so it can only go up to the straight vertical position now.

I decided to go with one of the knockoff modified mustang/blacktop bridges off ebay as I acquire parts. I figured less than $10 with free shipping can't hurt that much if it's bad. Lock tite the height screws, bridge post screws, it should be fine. I'm going to remove the D and G saddles screws so they sit flush with the bridge. I'd go with a staytrem but a budget build calls for budget parts - at least for the moment.

Thinking of ordering a Mustang bridge as a drop-in replacement for my 7.25" radius neck 60s Lacquer Jazzmaster (MiM). Anyone else mod this model with the Mustang bridge? If so did you use this one:

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