Tuffset Bridge

[Shadoweclipse13]

I've been excited about this for a long time, and am really happy to see it getting closer to releasing! Fantastic stuff as always Dan!

[Johno]

Subscribed....

I use Staytrems on my guitars at the moment but interested in trying one of your designs.

When are they likely to be available?

[gishuk]

Signed up to the list and definitely looking to try this!

I followed the other thread when you were developing it and it's really come together so well

[mekhem]

Interesting ...

Odd question - mainly because it has come up in conversation and on here recently: Where does this bridge like to live when you do a set up?

I assume relatively high because its rocking?

[Deed_Poll]

To be clear, I'm aware of the conical nature of the bottom of the thimbles. I just meant that in my experience, the screw point touches the very center of that concave point, and there's enough empty space all around it that the bridge can sit forward (in relation to the trem) or backward while still touching the 'center' of the thimble. I was just thinking aloud about how something flatter might have a greater chance of standing back at center once you let up on the trem (but again, I could be very incorrect). With all that being said, from the renders it seems that the angle that the screw is cut is quite a bit different than the current Fender offerings and/or appears to be physically wider, so maybe this all becomes a non-issue. Cheers, and thank you for the detailed response!

Hey Alex! Ah I see what you're getting at - good news is I have a precise answer to that question, and it is that you don't want a "detente" in the middle.

The point/cone need that empty space to rock freely. As you said before, the location on a single point is the most important factor.

The rocking range should be as smooth and even as possible - and it's even best to have the bridge angled very slightly backwards (balancing out the angle "in front" and "behind" the bridge). If it's hypothetically exactly balanced between the two, the bridge theoretically doesn't need *any* friction between the string and the saddle to stay where it is - in reality of course, it's an unstable equilibrium, so you do need some friction - and the bridge saddles are designed to provide the friction it needs.

The more imbalanced the angle-in and angle-out are, the more friction you need to prevent the bridge "collapsing" (really, it's a tendency to slip one way, not an actual collapse).

Hope that clears things up!

[Deed_Poll]

Interesting ...

Odd question - mainly because it has come up in conversation and on here recently: Where does this bridge like to live when you do a set up?

I assume relatively high because its rocking?

The height of the bridge is going to be determined by the other geometry of your guitar - primarily the neck pocket angle (and shimming).

I will say that our minimum clearance height is 19mm. Basically, when the tip of the inner post is just sticking out of the outer post, that's the clearance you have between the tip and the locking retainers on the underside that are the "lowest" point of the bridge.

Most original style bridges have an inner post that's M2.5 (2.5mm diameter) and 14mm in length. In reality, this means you have about 10mm or 12mm (at a real stretch) of range upward from that point. The higher it goes, the fewer threads are in contact between the "inner" and "outer" posts and the less stable the post.

The inner post is much smaller than the outer post, and I think this is so they can die-cast or otherwise cheaply manufacture the outer post. It leaves plenty of outer post wall thickness - I think the outer post diameter is 6mm or 1/4", depending on the model.

The Tuffset uses an M4 (4mm diameter) inner post, so it is a lot more chunky and stable. It's also 4mm longer (18mm) so has approx 6 extra threads engaged at all times and in all settings compared with 14mm (M4 threads are 0.7mm long).

Long story short, it will give you at least an extra 4mm of potential height, whilst starting from a slightly lower profile at minimum.

And the biggest difference (of course) is the locking functionality! I'd rather have 4 threads with the locking follower than 20 threads without.

The outer post of the Tuffset is actually slimmer than the original bridges - 5mm diameter. We mill the posts from billet steel, so they are a lot stronger. I kept the diameter small to increase the rocking range - not an issue in the least with normal thimbles, but we're considering making a threaded locking "cup" so Tuffset can be used on AOM / TOM guitars, so thought we'd keep our options open.

[Deed_Poll]

I've been excited about this for a long time, and am really happy to see it getting closer to releasing! Fantastic stuff as always Dan!

I can't wait for you to try one!! Cheers J, hope you're doing good!

Subscribed....

I use Staytrems on my guitars at the moment but interested in trying one of your designs.

When are they likely to be available?

I'd say the one group of people who are going to LOVE this bridge are those who already prefer StayTrems. It's really the logical extension of the same philosophy as to what is "wrong" with the original bridges.

We'll have some trickling out that we're going to send for photography, review and so on - but in the main, expect 10-15 weeks (no promises! But that's the plan).

Signed up to the list and definitely looking to try this!

I followed the other thread when you were developing it and it's really come together so well

Cheers and I'm glad you think so! It's been quite the journey!!

[GilmourD]

I kept the diameter small to increase the rocking range - not an issue in the least with normal thimbles, but we're considering making a threaded locking "cup" so Tuffset can be used on AOM / TOM guitars, so thought we'd keep our options open.

Speaking of normal thimbles and AoM/ToM bushings...

What's been your experience with thimble fitment? Outside of the Mustang body I have where one hole is super tight and I had to hammer in the thimble (which is gonna be fun getting it out when I paint the body, so I'll probably also enlarge the hole), I've found that thimbles tend to slip into the hole with little pressure needed to get them to the bottom and I've been able to slip something thin under the lip (like a razor blade) and gently pry them out without marring the finish at all. Is this optimal or do they really need to be press fit in there tightly?

Mainly thinking about this in regards to pulling AoM/ToM bushings and pressing in a thimble with the proper inner diameter that fits into the existing hole, so what would those tolerances need to be.

[distressed]

Will you ship outside UK?

[Deed_Poll]

I kept the diameter small to increase the rocking range - not an issue in the least with normal thimbles, but we're considering making a threaded locking "cup" so Tuffset can be used on AOM / TOM guitars, so thought we'd keep our options open.

Speaking of normal thimbles and AoM/ToM bushings...

What's been your experience with thimble fitment? Outside of the Mustang body I have where one hole is super tight and I had to hammer in the thimble (which is gonna be fun getting it out when I paint the body, so I'll probably also enlarge the hole), I've found that thimbles tend to slip into the hole with little pressure needed to get them to the bottom and I've been able to slip something thin under the lip (like a razor blade) and gently pry them out without marring the finish at all. Is this optimal or do they really need to be press fit in there tightly?

Mainly thinking about this in regards to pulling AoM/ToM bushings and pressing in a thimble with the proper inner diameter that fits into the existing hole, so what would those tolerances need to be.

That's the beauty of having the inserts in the body of an AOM guitar - instead of having to unscrew them / rip them out, we're going to make a special sort of cup head grub screw that goes most of the way to the bottom, and another screw that locks the first one without getting in the way. That will make a firm foundation for the standard Tuffset bridge to rock on.

As far as general bridge thimble tolerances, I like them tight because I never have a reason to remove them. But since I don't know what people's plans are for finishing GuitarForm bodies, I usually suggest customers feel how tight their thimbles are in the slot themselves and using that to inform their decision whether to mask them off. They can always be redrilled of course, but there's a danger of damaging paint as you say!

It's a case by case basis!

[Deed_Poll]

Will you ship outside UK?

Yes!

[distressed]

Great Can't wait for the launch.

[Downsman]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!! Feeling pumped!

So, I do have a question!

How far forward and backward does the intonation range go? Not that I own a Bass VI (at least not currently... but eventually... ) but I know the ideal bridges for those usually have a wider range of intonation adjustment.

About double that of a standard bridge! I actually solicited a Bass VI Facebook group, and the generally accepted comfortable range of intonation was 10mm - so we allowed for 11mm

These look fantastic, and I just joined the mailing list. Though if you're looking for a local (Lewes) offset guitar fan who's just got a Squier Bass VI, to give their feedback on how it works on one of those, I'd be very happy to help out with that I currently have a spare Staytrem on it, but it's the regular guitar one so intonation is still an issue.

[Deed_Poll]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!! Feeling pumped!

So, I do have a question!

How far forward and backward does the intonation range go? Not that I own a Bass VI (at least not currently... but eventually... ) but I know the ideal bridges for those usually have a wider range of intonation adjustment.

About double that of a standard bridge! I actually solicited a Bass VI Facebook group, and the generally accepted comfortable range of intonation was 10mm - so we allowed for 11mm

These look fantastic, and I just joined the mailing list. Though if you're looking for a local (Lewes) offset guitar fan who's just got a Squier Bass VI, to give their feedback on how it works on one of those, I'd be very happy to help out with that I currently have a spare Staytrem on it, but it's the regular guitar one so intonation is still an issue.

PM sent!

[GilmourD]

Thanks for the encouragement guys!! Feeling pumped!



About double that of a standard bridge! I actually solicited a Bass VI Facebook group, and the generally accepted comfortable range of intonation was 10mm - so we allowed for 11mm

These look fantastic, and I just joined the mailing list. Though if you're looking for a local (Lewes) offset guitar fan who's just got a Squier Bass VI, to give their feedback on how it works on one of those, I'd be very happy to help out with that I currently have a spare Staytrem on it, but it's the regular guitar one so intonation is still an issue.

PM sent!

Yet another example of why I love this place. I've been online in some capacity since 1989 or 1990 (Prodigy user FNXC31B!) and it's so rare that I've seen people get together like everybody here.