This is what I was getting at when I mentioned making a jig a test neck out 2x4 to practice on, forgot that routing necks this way is largely in the realm of the repair world. Glad someone with a little more sense came along! I would use a collar instead of an index pin, easier on complex shapes.Amon 7.L wrote: ↑Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:55 amDon't worry, Steadyriot.. the drawing is perfectly clear and the suggestion is quite cool and gave me some further ideas!!
During these past days I couldn't work on the neck but I managed to think about a solution quite similar to your sketch, check it out!:
A few points to help.
Using a gramil to score the line on the fretboard will help greatly with chip out, remember that you are essentially leaving a board/starting a new board at every fret slot and chip out can happen, If you do not have a gramil do it in at least two passes if not three so you can see if there are any spots where the grain does something weird and wants to chip. Any bad spots you can just skip on the final pass and finish up with a chisel. Go ahead and do full depth from the get go though,either set the bit just a hair above the glue line or just below, if you set it right at it, it can cause tear out on the neck, maple is generally not a problem though. Setting the bit just above the glue line often works quite well, the violence of the router will often break the glues hold on that thin thin sliver, depending on the glue you are working with, but that may or may not work on a recently glued neck, works great on ones with a few decades behind them. Generally the binding is thicker then the fretboard, so you do not need to worry about this, but the geometry of the neck ultimately determines the binding size in such cases.
Good luck!