To be clear, use either (1) white for both hots and black for both grounds (as also in the AV65 below), or (2) black for both hots and white for both grounds.
https://www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/Orig ... A_SISD.pdf
And (good) ground is (good) ground. You can connect the pickup ground to any grounded point. In the AV65 above that was the ground plates (which your JMJM doesn't have .. and its shielding paint is not grounded to the same extent as plates .. so don't use the cavity paint to ground pickups).
And as I said Fender's low/mid/high diagram for the PV65's is almost certainly misleading .. the frequency responses of the 65 RI pickups has been shown to be identical (my earlier Antigua link). Fender's same-DCR/same-inductance numbers support that. But put either one in the bridge and of course you'll get more treble and less bass. And vice-verse at the neck.
Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
- timtam
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
"I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar." Rowland S. Howard.
- j mascis
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
Mine has triangles in the corners, and from your earlier diagram these look like "glazier points" -- do I solder directly onto those triangles to ground it best?
- timtam
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
Sorry for some reason I thought you were talking about a JMJM which would just have painted shielding. You can ground the pickups to anywhere on the plates. Fender shows them grounded to the body of the plates in the linked AV65 PDF. The glazier points are really just to hold the plates in place. But you could ground there. The plates must of course be grounded to the output jack ground tab somewhere. If in doubt about ground, check with a multimeter for continuity with the output jack tab/rim.
"I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar." Rowland S. Howard.
- j mascis
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
Great thanks. The guitar is a '65 thin skin AVRI so it has those glazier points and also some metal in the cavity just like in your photo.
- j mascis
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
Regarding a solder joint, if there is a big ball of solder that the wire is in (yet it reads normally on a multi meter) would that cause any issues?
- Horsefeather
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
No, a ball of solder isn't inherently problematic. Just make sure it's really adhered to the piece.
- j mascis
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Re: Trouble with Tone after Rewiring
Thanks, horse. I'm inside it now and sure enough I had the red dot in the neck and visa versa. I will see if switching them matters.
For anyone reading this in the future, red dot is bridge and blue is neck. There's only a slight difference on the multi-meter reading/ohms. I'll see if it matters. I'm going to wire it as on the diagrams even tho the way I did it worked and see if that matters, too. Something is very slightly off so I think it might be the culmination of these two things, but who knows.
For anyone reading this in the future, red dot is bridge and blue is neck. There's only a slight difference on the multi-meter reading/ohms. I'll see if it matters. I'm going to wire it as on the diagrams even tho the way I did it worked and see if that matters, too. Something is very slightly off so I think it might be the culmination of these two things, but who knows.