Tupelo Mk II [done! + video]

Talk about modding or building your own guitar from scratch.
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epizootics
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Tupelo Mk II [done! + video]

Post by epizootics » Tue Nov 12, 2019 11:41 pm

Talk about rescuing projects from drowning...
This one started a year ago and ended up on the back burner once I realized there were too many issues with its original neck, which was my first humble attempt at making my own.
Five or six guitars later, I decided the body would be a good ground for a few experiments. It was originally a rescue from the bins at my buddy's workshop (the same friend who gave me all that gold laminate I used on that little bass! He's getting a gift guitar next year.) I used the same body template for my douglas fir rescue of the Lungs neck and it proved to be comfortable enough a shape.

As per usual, here's my lame Photoshop rendering:

Image

The bridge is yet another butchering of a Chinese Mustang-type thing. I ordered three or four of them a while back just to get the thimbles that went with them. They turned out to be quite nice in spite of costing 3 dollars a pop. Contrary to popular belief (and advertisement on the seller's page), they are made of steel rather than zinc alloy, and a lot sturdier than they look. I would have been OK using them as is hadn't it been for the 55mm string spacing. Using the same kind of jig I'd made for the saddles on the bass, I made a couple of brass threaded saddles. The thinking behind it is that the two triads of wound and unwound strings would more or less follow a straight line for intonation, and that I could approximate the radius of the neck with two saddles only. One of the outer strings would be out by 0.3mm with a 7.25" radius, which is easily corrected with a file. I located the height adjustment screws so they wouldn't interfere with a 52mm string spread and used four of the original six saddle holes for the intonation screws. Here's what it looks like in the flesh:

Image

It's not the easiest bridge to adjust since it was not designed for this particular screw arrangement, but working with the screw threads tolerance, it is quite flexible and locks nicely into position, making the whole unit rock solid. The good news is that the Chinese bridge uses a standard post spacing, so if I end up not liking it I'll just swap it with a Staytrem.

Next experiment is the neck itself. I wanted to give the 'no truss-rod' approach a try. Some people swear by the organic quality of the sound you get from a truss-less guitar. I was more interested in the building process itself - it's a lot more work than simply using a truss rod. The shaft is a piece of service tree/rowan/sorb/mountain ash (this one has a few names!), which is the hardest/stiffest native lumber we have in Europe. And boy oh boy is it hard. Looks like a pinking version of maple, but this particular piece feels twice as hard to work. I routed out as much as I could from the back and let it sit for a month or so so the internal stresses would do what they had to do, before planing it again. The chechen fretboard went on, and I let that sit for another three weeks before sanding it flat again. Both times, there was a bit of movement and I was glad I'd waited. I then sanded some relief in the fretboard at the same time I was radiusing it to counteract the back bow induced by the fretting. In my previous builds, that back bow always ended up winning the fight against string tension, so I figured it would be the way to go here. It turned out straight as an arrow once the frets were on.

Anyway, here's the body & neck prior to fretting:

Image

(21 frets, 24" scale, 7.25 radius, 8mm burgundy Kydex fret markers)

Finally, I wanted to go a bit weird with the pickups. Thanks again to ShadowEclipse for vetting the electronics! :) Bridge is a twelve-slug, low wind, asymmetrical humbucker. Neck is typical Alnico 2 Mustang/Strat type. And between them will be wedged a very low wind ceramic bar thing, with the wire wound directly onto the magnet. I will only be used in series with the other two, it would be too tinny to use by itself. It's a reproduction of my primitive first-ever pickup, which was built that way and only sounded good when coupled with another pickup. Those have a nasty, sizzling attack that really cuts through the mix (and people's ears when used on its own).

Maybe I should rename it 'The Black Crow King', on account of its beak and wing-ish pickguard? :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPWamnWE498

(and of course...)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSl4KX7zBTQ
Last edited by epizootics on Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by Flurko » Wed Nov 13, 2019 12:50 am

The thread title already had me playing the song in another tab before clicking your final link.
I'll be following this with interest, really enjoyed your previous projects :)

This whole bow-preventing thing with the neck looks fascinating and headache-inducing at the same time, props ! I guess when you build with a trussrod you only have to cut everything straight and adjust the rod at the end to counteract the strings tension and movement of the wood ?

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Wed Nov 13, 2019 10:05 am

Flurko wrote:
Wed Nov 13, 2019 12:50 am
The thread title already had me playing the song in another tab before clicking your final link.
I'll be following this with interest, really enjoyed your previous projects :)

This whole bow-preventing thing with the neck looks fascinating and headache-inducing at the same time, props ! I guess when you build with a trussrod you only have to cut everything straight and adjust the rod at the end to counteract the strings tension and movement of the wood ?
Hey, a fellow Frenchman with a liking for the old Nick Cave stuff! :) Grenoblois, de surcroît !

The whole no-truss-rod thing can be approached two ways it seems: (1) putting the neck together the usual way, hammerin'em frets in and hoping for the best, which Leo Fender did with the early Broadcaster (which is not totally senseless - with the materials he used, string tension would balance out with the fitting of the frets and most necks would be OK, until one of them silly guitar players would go and play a club in Wisconsin) and (2) the anticipatory way, which apparently is what Martin did with their compression fretting. I'm somewhere in the middle - I did some observations of how much back bow I got from similar frets and similar fret slots on a neck that had a TR, then sanded a bit of a bow in the fretboard accordingly. We'll see what happens once it is strung up, but I have good hopes - the neck is carved and it doesn't bend at all when I lean onto the middle with the ends secured against my Workmate. Good part of it is what you'd call faith :wtf:

But, yup, as you say, it's a lot more work than routing a channel and sticking a piece of steel in there, unless you go for way (1).

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by tdbajus » Thu Nov 14, 2019 2:31 pm

If you made a jazzmaster bridge that had three saddles like a vintage tele bridge I would hail you as a god among men and praise your name every dawn upon the rising of the sun.

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Thu Nov 14, 2019 10:08 pm

tdbajus wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 2:31 pm
If you made a jazzmaster bridge that had three saddles like a vintage tele bridge I would hail you as a god among men and praise your name every dawn upon the rising of the sun.
Didn't Jess Loureiro make these?

https://www.jlguitars.com/index.php?id_ ... &id_lang=8

Oh yeah. I remember ripping him a new one on this board for charging his customers 60€ for something they could make themselves with a hand-held drill, a screwdriver and $12 on AliExpress. I recognize the Chinese bridge frame on his pictures. It's still a good idea, as long as you don't go for that silly threading of the strings through the original intonation screw holes. I still don't want to diss the guy, he makes very decent pickups, but he does take the mickey from time to time. He didn't even go through the trouble of replacing the original grub screws with shorter ones so they don't stick out a mile out of the saddles. I don't like the idea of people making money out of what should be a simple DIY concept, especially when the final retail price is the same as that of a Staytrem unit, which we'll all agree John made a fantastic job on and uses superior materials. I would feel like an idiot if I went and tried to sell my two-saddle thing, but I'll be happy helping people make their own.

(Sorry for the rant! Those things always get me going)

The neck is pretty much finished, I'm really stoked by the looks of that Chechen fretboard. It has that crazy shimmer that changes with the light. I'll try to post pictures if we ever get any daylight (I don't think the sun has shone on Lyon City at all in the last seven days). Time for some work on that body now...

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Fri Nov 15, 2019 12:30 am

Oh! Sunshine! Good grief, I hope it won't last too long, my eyes ain't used to that blazing shine anymore. ::)
I got to snap a few pics of the neck though:

Image

Image

Image

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:14 am

New neck pocket cut...Made a neck plate too...

Image

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by Ceylon » Fri Nov 15, 2019 9:08 am

It must be satisfying to no end to have the equipment and skill to make these things in your home. As a klutz living in an apartment, I envy you.
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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Fri Nov 15, 2019 9:50 am

Hey! I'm a klutz living in an apartment too! I have very understanding neighbors, though :)

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by Rgand » Sun Nov 17, 2019 6:02 am

Looking good! This will be a fantastic guitar. I really like that neck plate. Just enough taper to work with the body.

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Fri Nov 22, 2019 2:10 am

Back to little Tupelo after an elongated week-end interruption (went to see Tropical Fuck Storm for the second time this year...Maybe my favorite live band of these last twenty years!)

Trem cavity is routed, bridge thimble holes drilled, and now I'm kind of wondering what to do with that pickguard. Since I already had a template for its douglas fir sister's version, I whipped one up as well as the new art deco wing thing.

Image

Image

They both have practical & aesthetics pros and cons, and I'm really not sure which one I prefer. What do y'all think?

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by antisymmetric » Fri Nov 22, 2019 1:01 pm

Just a bizarro thought, but I wonder how the deco one would look rotated 180 degrees? Might have to bisect the neck and pickups a bit, and it might not work at all, but those steps in the guard would kind of follow the shape of the upper treble horn. Feel free to ignore and possibly ridicule this ;D :wacko:
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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by solfege » Fri Nov 22, 2019 7:48 pm

The art deco wing thing is cool, but I'm not sure it's working on that guitar, or at least with all the other black elements. I think the original fits the shape better, but I'm also feeling like it's not quite there with all the other elements. Part of me is wondering whether the solution wouldn't be something that goes up further and doesn't project back onto the rounded part, maybe a la a full SG pickguard (adapted for the body shape, obviously).

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by Rgand » Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:13 pm

Both have their advantages but I also wonder if there isn't a better solution than either one. Solfege's suggestion of an SG-ish design may be something to think about.
Last edited by Rgand on Sat Nov 23, 2019 7:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Tupelo Mk II

Post by epizootics » Fri Nov 22, 2019 11:07 pm

You all have a point, guys!
Symmetrical bodies seem to make things a good bit harder when it comes to the pickguard area. I think the rounded one worked with the douglas fir guitar because it had a symmetrical headstock as well, but it looks kinda clunky and awkward here. Another problem is how busy that body top is with the three pickups and that big 'bucker. Both options look better as soon as I take one of the pickups out of the equation.

My wife's take on this is that I am trying to get the body shape, the headstock shape and the PG shape in the foreground when at least one of them should step down and let the other two dictate the aesthetics of the guitar. By trying to make every part of the design interesting, I'm essentially neutralizing their overall cohesion.

On top of it all, I tend to like to leave the back as untouched as possible, which tends to result in the pickguard doubling as a control plate and force it into the bridge area, but I think you guys are right, the pg needs to move forward somehow. Antisymmetric, your solution actually works! I'm not sure I can get away with keeping the pickguard as it is now, but there's definitely something there. Solfege and Rgand, I tried the SG-ish solution and it does balance out well, but it masks a bit too much of the wood's patterns to my liking.

The good thing is that I've cut those two in plain black ABS instead of expensive 3-ply material - or stainless steel like I tend to do. I'll make more. :whistle:

On a side note, and because a lot of people on this board are into homemade designs, I think it would be interesting to start a thread about aesthetics and drawing basics. It's really easy to get stuck into one's design habits. Thanks a lot to you three! :)

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