Building a candy apple Jazzmaster - Finished! Photos on page 2

[mikefiction]

I got some of the stuff to start a CAR JM build.

Used B.Hefner neck from the auction site (edit: it has a really nice dark rosewood) - body ordered from a shop in the UK. Pickguard from fenderparts.

I just have some old squier trem and bridge from my Bass VI upgrade on it to set the neck and string it up to test - waiting on my fender parts.

The body has one issue - the bridge holes are just slightly off, just a mm or two forward, just enough that I'm going to have to plug them and re-drill.

I haven't decided on pickups, pure vintage would be the cheapest option but I have those in my american original. I'm thinking Novaks?
Also not sure if I'm doing traditional electronics or something different with the upper circuit, will have to experiment, any suggestions?

[manwithtitties]

i think wide range humbuckers and dial-a-taps like on the classic player/vintera HH jags would be neat

[adamrobertt]

If the bridge posts are only a millimeter or so off then why should drilling be necessary? Surely the adjustment of the bridge could compensate for that small of a difference...

I have the PV '65 pickups in my Jazzmaster and they are very good. I don't plan on swapping them any time soon or ever.

[mikefiction]

It may be more like 2-3mm but mainly I want to fix it so it centers under the pickguard holes - i'd rather modify the body than the pickguard, as the body will be hidden, but the pickguard won't, if that makes sense.

The PV65 is on my other JM as well, and they sound beautiful, wouldn't change a thing - was only thinking to change to try a different tone, even if it's just so slightly different, lol

If the bridge posts are only a millimeter or so off then why should drilling be necessary? Surely the adjustment of the bridge could compensate for that small of a difference...

I have the PV '65 pickups in my Jazzmaster and they are very good. I don't plan on swapping them any time soon or ever.

[Embenny]

Two questions:

1) On what basis are you judging the bridge holes to be off their placement? You mentioned pickguard alignment, but pickguards frequently require adjustment to fit a body, not the other way around. If you're moving the bridge posts on the body in order to avoid sanding a pickguard, you may likely end up with a guitar that cannot be intonated properly. I'd say about 50% of all pickguards I've ever bought required some sanding to fit properly. On JMs, it's also common for some pickguards to be based on the MIJ template vs the MIA one without the manufacturer specifying or realizing it, and the most common discrepancy is for the thimble holes not to line up when the neck pocket does, and vice versa.

I really, really strongly encourage you to adjust the pickguard rather than the body.

2) Why would you presume the fretboard to be BRW? All BRW in Europe or North America for decades has been either heavily-regulated and certified stumpwood, or illegally smuggled. In either case, absurdly expensive. There are many rosewood species that have red and brown variations in the grain and it is generally accepted that BRW cannot be reliably visually identified (and many makers have taken advantage of this, claiming things to be BRW that arent even true rosewood species, like jacaranda).

[adamrobertt]

Two questions:

1) On what basis are you judging the bridge holes to be off their placement? You mentioned pickguard alignment, but pickguards frequently require adjustment to fit a body, not the other way around. If you're moving the bridge posts on the body in order to avoid sanding a pickguard, you may likely end up with a guitar that cannot be intonated properly. I'd say about 50% of all pickguards I've ever bought required some sanding to fit properly. On JMs, it's also common for some pickguards to be based on the MIJ template vs the MIA one without the manufacturer specifying or realizing it, and the most common discrepancy is for the thimble holes not to line up when the neck pocket does, and vice versa.

I really, really strongly encourage you to adjust the pickguard rather than the body.

2) Why would you presume the fretboard to be BRW? All BRW in Europe or North America for decades has been either heavily-regulated and certified stumpwood, or illegally smuggled. In either case, absurdly expensive. There are many rosewood species that have red and brown variations in the grain and it is generally accepted that BRW cannot be reliably visually identified (and many makers have taken advantage of this, claiming things to be BRW that arent even true rosewood species, like jacaranda).

Agreed about the pickguard. Also remember that the bridge holes in the guard are covered completely by the bridge. You won't be able to see them unless you make them gigantic for some reason.

[Zork]

That pickguard looks really good. Is it printed?

[andy_tchp]

Fender Japan body?

Those have thimble holes located with about 3mm difference when compared with American spec bodies and the pickguard fit sucks when trying to mix/match, even when you do elongate the holes.

[mikefiction]

I'm judging it on the measurement from the nut - where it is currently located it is more difficult to perfectly intonate the guitar - the pickguard does fit my American Original JM with no issues. It would require more than a little sanding on the pickguard to line them up, plus the scale length would be short still - looks like it's a tad over 1/8 inch short.



I didn't know that brazillian was so rare, i doubt it's that - it's some other rosewood but quite darker than usual.

Two questions:

1) On what basis are you judging the bridge holes to be off their placement? You mentioned pickguard alignment, but pickguards frequently require adjustment to fit a body, not the other way around. If you're moving the bridge posts on the body in order to avoid sanding a pickguard, you may likely end up with a guitar that cannot be intonated properly. I'd say about 50% of all pickguards I've ever bought required some sanding to fit properly. On JMs, it's also common for some pickguards to be based on the MIJ template vs the MIA one without the manufacturer specifying or realizing it, and the most common discrepancy is for the thimble holes not to line up when the neck pocket does, and vice versa.

I really, really strongly encourage you to adjust the pickguard rather than the body.

2) Why would you presume the fretboard to be BRW? All BRW in Europe or North America for decades has been either heavily-regulated and certified stumpwood, or illegally smuggled. In either case, absurdly expensive. There are many rosewood species that have red and brown variations in the grain and it is generally accepted that BRW cannot be reliably visually identified (and many makers have taken advantage of this, claiming things to be BRW that arent even true rosewood species, like jacaranda).

[mikefiction]

I do not believe it is printed - supposedly it is celluloid but I am not an expert. I'm not going to set it on fire to test, haha

That pickguard looks really good. Is it printed?

[mikefiction]

It may be Japanese specs - the company that it came from in the UK said they have them made in Japan, but they stated it was US specs. it's possible it's actually Japan specs, or it's possible they just did a poor job. It doesn't have any pickguard holes yet, so I can't tell by previous holes or anything.

Fender Japan body?

Those have thimble holes located with about 3mm difference when compared with American spec bodies and the pickguard fit sucks when trying to mix/match, even when you do elongate the holes.

[Rgand]

I'm judging it on the measurement from the nut - where it is currently located it is more difficult to perfectly intonate the guitar - the pickguard does fit my American Original JM with no issues. It would require more than a little sanding on the pickguard to line them up, plus the scale length would be short still - looks like it's a tad over 1/8 inch short.

Looks like your plug and re-drill idea is in order.

[mikefiction]

Got the old holes plugged - just need to wait until it cures to re-drill - waiting until tomorrow anyways so that I have the bridge thimbles in hand to test fit on scrap before I drill the body. 3/8" should be good since I ordered an AVRI bridge but want to be sure.

[OV7]

The Pure Vintage set sounded great to me, but I like the '65 Reissue neck and '62 Reissue bridge better. I can't tell the difference between any of them, though. They all sounded better once I put an Emerson harness in it. That pickguard and neck binding is an awesome combo.

[mikefiction]

I think I'm just going to go with the pure vintage '65 ones as they sound amazing and are a whole lot cheaper than the other options.

The Pure Vintage set sounded great to me, but I like the '65 Reissue neck and '62 Reissue bridge better. I can't tell the difference between any of them, though. They all sounded better once I put an Emerson harness in it. That pickguard and neck binding is an awesome combo.