Twelve-String Mustang / XII

[raxling coxcomb, a]

I missed responding to this before about the scale: it's a 24.5" scale neck.

The issue I see now with the Gotoh is moving it back far enough so the intonation is correct means leaving a larger gap between the pick guard and the start of the bridge.

Not converted a mustang to XII before so took a look at a mustang player on line.
Tell me if im missing something..
Im strugling to see why the gotoh cant be seated against the guard? Maybee a little material will need removing from pickguard either side of the bridge (IF the gotoh plate is wider width than the mustangs) but if you open up your gotoh plate for the bodys string through holes, it looks to me that the gotoh saddles would be seated in near same position as the originals?

I would fit the gotoh up against the guard, send something through the string holes to mark the back of the bridge so you can open plate holes up.
Any chance of a picture/mock up?

Ahh pennys dropped!! Your neck is 24.5 Not 24.
Yes this will throw up problems if using the Gotoh.
I wouldnt use the Gotoh on this personally.
Im a big fan of one piece compton bridges, but if you are ok with TOM or jazzmaster...

For the Compton, or TOM, Jazzmaster/Mustang bridges — none of which I have an issue with—I'd need to drill post holes. Which, humorously enough, is what I was posting about at the beginning of this thread.

However, the post holes would need to be moved back about 1" in order to intonate correctly. This again causes a somewhat large gap between the bridge and the pickguard.

To be honest, I already modified the Gotoh bridge and had installed everything. I didn't properly account for the length of the Gotoh saddles. The breakpoint can't be set far enough back to intonate.

[Nudger]

However, the post holes would need to be moved back about 1" in order to intonate correctly

I think that the bridge would only have to be set back about 1/4 of an inch if your neck is only 1/2 inch longer than your original 24" neck..

Measurement from 12th fret to centre of bridge should be half of your total 24.5 scale.

[raxling coxcomb, a]

I think that the bridge would only have to be set back about 1/4 of an inch if your neck is only 1/2 inch longer than your original 24" neck..

Measurement from 12th fret to centre of bridge should be half of your total 24.5 scale.

I took a picture. See what you think. The issue with that measurement is that the Gotoh saddle is long, and needs to leave enough room for the string to get over the saddle at the back of the bridge.

I'll explain what you're seeing, because everything is layered.

The ruler edge, with the pencil pointing at it, is where the measurement for the new scale ends. Under the ruler is the Gotoh bridge in its proposed placement. On top of that, is the original bridge in its original position. And on top of that is the saddle for the Gotoh bridge.

To leave room for the string, and make the breakpoint of the saddle be in the right place, I think the bridge needs to come back at least to where it is in the picture.

Any thoughts, OSG folks?

[Nudger]

I personally would ditch the gotoh, throwing up too much complications when pairing with your non standard neck scale.
Once repositioned, your ferrule holes would be way outa whack.

Another option
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335082862215 ... media=COPY

[raxling coxcomb, a]

I personally would ditch the gotoh, throwing up too much complications when pairing with your non standard neck scale.
Once repositioned, your ferrule holes would be way outa whack.

My question now as changed into: when you're marking the intonation point on the body, do prefer it so that point is in the middle of a saddle's ability to move forward and backward? I checked the original saddles and they seem like they would be fairly far back to intonate correctly

The reason why is because the body is from a Fender Modern Player. If I go with a Ben Gibbard-style Mustang bridge/baseplate or TOM-style bridge, I'd have to drill the holes for the bridge posts. The placement of the bridge posts (using a template) look like the bridge saddles would just barely make it where it should be. I'd have to move them back slightly.

Another issue is if it was TOM-style, then you'd be able to see the original holes for the strings & bridge as well.

[Nudger]

You could use mustang plate "gibbard style" and use a tom.
This would cover ferrule/screw holes.
Idealy you would have to open up the bass side hole for the bridge stud to angle bridge gibson style for more flexible intonation.


You would still have a gap between pickguard and plate tho.. If i was to take this route i would use a vintage style guard.
Maverick had a gap between.. Your gap would be smaller.

[raxling coxcomb, a]

You would still have a gap between pickguard and plate tho.. If i was to take this route i would use a vintage style guard.
Maverick had a gap between.. Your gap would be smaller.

Thanks. It's worth mentioning that the grounding wire comes out of the body on these models 2.5mm from the pickguard.

Thinking over the options some before the next steps.

[raxling coxcomb, a]

In the end, I ended up:

- moving the bridge back away from the neck
- drilled for, and installed, a Ben Gibbard hardtail bridge
- used a threaded Jaguar saddle, and
- shimmed the neck

Looks good, although the nut may need to be redone.

Thanks for all the input and lessons learned

[Nudger]

Pictures?

[raxling coxcomb, a]

Pictures?

Eventually! Getting a new pickguard made first.