3D printed bits and bobs for guitar? What would you make if you had access to a 3D printer?

[tqi]

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[tqi]

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[JackFawkes]

Looks like a Japanese bachi ( 桴 plectrum) to me...

正しい!

Wild!
Do you also play shamisen?

Jack

[tqi]

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[GilmourD]

Didn't want to hijack his thread and I already have a 3D printed stuff thread, so why not here?

Will include a rhythm circuit switch spacer with the pickguards with #4-40 x 1/2" stainless steel screws. These were 3D printed by a friend. 2.6mm thick. Leaves 3mm of the switch poking out the 3-ply pickguard on a Jazzmaster , haven't measured yet on Jaguar control plates.

Noticing you seem to have massaged a couple spots on the spacer, I'm assuming to fit the route. Makes me think I should pre-massage my spacer model for such eventualities...

[einpresstiefe]

Didn't want to hijack his thread and I already have a 3D printed stuff thread, so why not here?

Will include a rhythm circuit switch spacer with the pickguards with #4-40 x 1/2" stainless steel screws. These were 3D printed by a friend. 2.6mm thick. Leaves 3mm of the switch poking out the 3-ply pickguard on a Jazzmaster , haven't measured yet on Jaguar control plates.

Noticing you seem to have massaged a couple spots on the spacer, I'm assuming to fit the route. Makes me think I should pre-massage my spacer model for such eventualities...

It's supposed to be symmetrical. I think that one maybe either got sanded to fit because it was an early one when we were playing with the scaling for correct size or we pulled it off the bed while it still hot and the consistency of Laffy Taffy.

[GilmourD]

Didn't want to hijack his thread and I already have a 3D printed stuff thread, so why not here?

Will include a rhythm circuit switch spacer with the pickguards with #4-40 x 1/2" stainless steel screws. These were 3D printed by a friend. 2.6mm thick. Leaves 3mm of the switch poking out the 3-ply pickguard on a Jazzmaster , haven't measured yet on Jaguar control plates.

Noticing you seem to have massaged a couple spots on the spacer, I'm assuming to fit the route. Makes me think I should pre-massage my spacer model for such eventualities...

It's supposed to be symmetrical. I think that one maybe either got sanded to fit because it was an early one when we were playing with the scaling for correct size or we pulled it off the bed while it still was still the consistency of Laffy Taffy.

This was my first go at it on a 3D printer that is not mine (a MakerBot Sketch in my friend's classroom). I very clearly need to work on my surfaces and will be doing a bunch of small prototyping once my printer arrives (hopefully tomorrow, unless FedEx pulls a FedEx... ).

I was thinking that it's not necessary to have the spacer actually go out as far as it does as long as it's able to hold the screw, so theoretically (but possibly not practically) I could even lop the ends off making the holes semicircles and trim it down a touch width-wise since every so often there's a body route that is just a bit too tight where the switches are.



Maybe I could even find a conductive filament for those that shield their pickguards and use that shielding (or Jag plates) as the ground connection throughout.

[einpresstiefe]

This was my first go at it on a 3D printer that is not mine (a MakerBot Sketch in my friend's classroom). I very clearly need to work on my surfaces and will be doing a bunch of small prototyping once my printer arrives (hopefully tomorrow, unless FedEx pulls a FedEx... ).

I was thinking that it's not necessary to have the spacer actually go out as far as it does as long as it's able to hold the screw, so theoretically (but possibly not practically) I could even lop the ends off making the holes semicircles and trim it down a touch width-wise since every so often there's a body route that is just a bit too tight where the switches are.



Maybe I could even find a conductive filament for those that shield their pickguards and use that shielding (or Jag plates) as the ground connection throughout.

Those look great. I originally asked another friend who has a higher end resin 3D printer to make these. The work his machine puts out looks a lot better than the parts I have. The media we used was some cheaper stuff that my friend didn't like for his other projects, but these are plenty sufficient for the purpose. At this point I have enough for all the offsets I currently own plus a few extras, so they'll do until I need more.

I also considered adjusting the shape a bit because there's more meat there than is necessary, particularly when the first one we printed was too large. I'm not doing enough printing of these for it to matter but someone doing these in large quantity could save quite a bit of media by playing with the profile.

[GilmourD]

This was my first go at it on a 3D printer that is not mine (a MakerBot Sketch in my friend's classroom). I very clearly need to work on my surfaces and will be doing a bunch of small prototyping once my printer arrives (hopefully tomorrow, unless FedEx pulls a FedEx... ).

I was thinking that it's not necessary to have the spacer actually go out as far as it does as long as it's able to hold the screw, so theoretically (but possibly not practically) I could even lop the ends off making the holes semicircles and trim it down a touch width-wise since every so often there's a body route that is just a bit too tight where the switches are.



Maybe I could even find a conductive filament for those that shield their pickguards and use that shielding (or Jag plates) as the ground connection throughout.

Those look great. I originally asked another friend who has a higher end resin 3D printer to make these. The work his machine puts out looks a lot better than the parts I have. The media we used was some cheaper stuff that my friend didn't like for his other projects, but these are plenty sufficient for the purpose. At this point I have enough for all the offsets I currently own plus a few extras, so they'll do until I need more.

I also considered adjusting the shape a bit because there's more meat there than is necessary, particularly when the first one we printed was too large. I'm not doing enough printing of these for it to matter but someone doing these in large quantity could save quite a bit of media by playing with the profile.

What drove me to all this insanity is my orange Mustang having much more switch height than I was comfy with but the Faction spacers being thicker than I wanted to drop the switch height. I ended up going with the thinnest version I printed while the thickest was roughly the the 0.175 of Faction's.

But in going through that simple project I learned a bunch about Illustrator, TinkerCAD, and 3D printing fundamentals, enough to make it worth my while to get my own printer for personal stuff (and maybe sell some stuff on my Reverb store).

[einpresstiefe]

What drove me to all this insanity is my orange Mustang having much more switch height than I was comfy with but the Faction spacers being thicker than I wanted to drop the switch height. I ended up going with the thinnest version I printed while the thickest was roughly the the 0.175 of Faction's.

But in going through that simple project I learned a bunch about Illustrator, TinkerCAD, and 3D printing fundamentals, enough to make it worth my while to get my own printer for personal stuff (and maybe sell some stuff on my Reverb store).

There were a few things that led me to the switch spacers. For one I was having issues with the screws bottoming out when using an anodized pickguard on the the JMs. Also, I have a Johnny Marr Jag and the lower profile switch tips became natural looking to me.

As for the printing stuff, the friend I mention previously with the resin 3D printer is an engineer proficient in CAD. He bought his printer just for his own hobby projects and asked me for ideas and so naturally I want guitar parts. Probably the coolest thing he's made for me so far was this Boss pedal backplate. He has access to a 3D scanner at work, but he prefers to measure and draw most the time because for him it's quicker and easier than dealing with all the extraneous data from the scanner.

[DeathJag]

Okay so I have something - a one-off though so it's probably not practical - a replacement handle for this 1948 Gibson BR-4 amp! It was originally Bakelite. I know this is super problematic since there's no original to scan, so it's probably impossible. Right now the amp appears to have a 50s or 60s box or briefcase handle that feels super flimsy. One of those vinyl straps held by brackets on either side.



I realize this is not even for a guitar so it doesn't even fit your criteria... But dang I'd love to put a more appropriate handle on it.

[GilmourD]

Okay so I have something - a one-off though so it's probably not practical - a replacement handle for this 1948 Gibson BR-4 amp! It was originally Bakelite. I know this is super problematic since there's no original to scan, so it's probably impossible. Right now the amp appears to have a 50s or 60s box or briefcase handle that feels super flimsy. One of those vinyl straps held by brackets on either side.



I realize this is not even for a guitar so it doesn't even fit your criteria... But dang I'd love to put a more appropriate handle on it.

How does it mount (screws? pins? from the inside?) and what are the dimensions?

[GilmourD]

A wee bit of a prototype test print: https://imgur.com/a/0YTFtHg

[GilmourD]

Mark I (printed on a MakerBot SKETCH) on the left, Mark II printed on my Creality Ender-3 V3 KE on the right.

[GilmourD]

And a prototype using the filament that came with the printer and crappy infill settings to save time and filament. LOL

Needs some small tweaks but it's almost there.