Thoroughly enjoyed myself in the shed this morning...
Drawing round the template - I could have done it with the join central but in the end I decided to have most of the body in one piece, so I did it as close as I could to one edge, just missing a knot:
This is the body jigsawed out about 2-3mm from the line. After this I screwed the template down onto the body using holes that will eventually have pickguard screws in them:
Then routing the sides flush, always so the bit is pulling down the grain not pushing into it, with remider arrows on the template to tell me which way to cut. Learned that the hard way on the first MOTORIK build. So first with the top bearing...
...then raising the bit, turning the body over and finishing off. Someone asked me where they could find these bits the other day. I got this from Axminster: 806690, third one down -http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-CMT- ... -20936.htm
It's 50mm long, 1/2" shaft, 19mm bearing width, with an extra 19mm bearing to fit on the shaft. They aren't cheap, but they are really nice quality and leave the grain perfectly smooth all round so you hardly need to sand it afterwards.
Drilling the neck mounting holes:
I marked off the three cavity depths I needed on a scrap from the body blank, then used the depth stop on my drill to make sure I didn't go too deep when I...
...hogged out the cavities with a 20mm forstner bit:
All ready for routing. I've marked the template with the depth of each cavity, then the depth (T) for the router including the template thickness:
Routed nice and clean. I have two or three bearing guided cutters of different widths and depths for this:
Starting to cut the roundover with a 1/2" radius bit, remembering not to do the underside of the neck pocket - that gets done by hand: I did this in about three passes so it didn't put too much load on the bit. I sanded the edges before doing this so there were no irregularities from the routing that would affect the roundover.
Then I used the neck holes and the trem cavity to measure and mark out a centre-line, measured 3" back from the front edge and clamped my neck pocket template in place. I jacked it up at the back to angle the pocket slightly. I've left the pocket about 14.5mm deep at the front, 13mm deep at the back. It might need to go deeper later - depends on the neck. I just remember having a hard time getting the angle right on the first MOTORIK, having cut the pocket flat to begin with:
So this is where I finished up today: all done except the arm and tummy contours, and I need to drill wiring tunnels between the cavities. I always forget to do that: