Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replicas - SG-2 Finished p15/18

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - chrome home

Post by croatan » Sun Sep 09, 2012 5:12 pm

Don't worry about the swaztikas. You can't be all bad. You dropped a Bananaman reference.
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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - guard done

Post by Murph » Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:17 pm

pickguard is perfect

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - guard done

Post by PsychoSurfer » Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:25 am

Amazing work, this has me salivating! :? <--- Like that except I'm white and not bright yellow

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - guard done

Post by theworkoffire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 4:30 pm

Some minor works to update before the final push. Just waiting on a laser-cut neck plate and an experimental bridge base (stand by for Kahler mash-up), then I can get the SG-2 fully assembled. Oh, and special string trees, too, hopefully.

I went back and changed the trem pivot screws on the SG-2's plate. I realised I'd forgotten to specify the holes as countersunk when I ordered the plate off Paul, and I only remembered when I stumbled across the correct screws on sale at WD Music:

Image

Image

Back of the guard shielded:

Image

Then yesterday evening, to the pleasant accompaniment of Gideon Coe, wetsanding...

Image

...and polishing:

Image

I'm a bit out of practice with the old finishing lark, so I was back and forth between paper and micromesh cloth, water, window cleaner and white spirit. Then every rubbing compound I could lay my hands on. Still haven't found anything that wet-sands better than white spirit. It makes the paper cut much more efficiently than water, glides more smoothly, and dries quicker. When the surface gets smooth it sucks the block down onto the finish with a really satisfying tension. The lacquer is still a tiny bit softer than I would have liked, but it's turned out fine. T-cut and Halfords aerosol rubbing compound won out in the end.

Image

Tonight I made a roller pot bracket out of some angle aluminium - pics later - and painted a couple of coats of conductive paint into the cavity:

Image

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - guard done

Post by antisymmetric » Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:36 pm

theworkoffire wrote: Image
The gold with that fingerboard. Gorgeous! :-*
Last edited by antisymmetric on Wed Sep 26, 2012 1:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by Murph » Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:40 pm

i can't even deal with this thing it's so perfect

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by surfin_bird » Wed Sep 26, 2012 1:08 am

Shit, I just got my 4th vintage yamaha. But this looks better that the original.
I think I need to rob your place :ph34r:
I would give up my sg-3c to get one. :?

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - guard done

Post by garyptaszek » Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:33 am

theworkoffire wrote:
Image
amazing work as always Ben.
One question. At some point I need to sheild my Baritone JM (I put it together in a hurry and never sheilded it). Any tips? Where do you get that sheilding paint from?
thanks

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - guard done

Post by PorkyPrimeCut » Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:47 am

theworkoffire wrote: Image
I saw this in person the other day & the neck is amazing!!

By the way, not meaning to diss your work but did you consider domed screws instead of flat-tops?
theworkoffire wrote: Image
Each to his own of course but I'm actually heading back over to Clerkenwell Screws to pick up some for my Reverb Unit build.
I'm not sure what size you'd need but I could grab a few if they stock them. They're stainless steel.
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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by theworkoffire » Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:50 am

Thanks loads guys!

Gary, the paint is from Rothko & Frost. Very easy to just paint the cavity. To ground the paint you can either paint up over the lip to a screw hole where it will touch the guard shielding, or you can do it like Yamaha did and run a wire from the back of a pot and screw the other end down into the cavity somewhere.

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by garyptaszek » Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:37 am

theworkoffire wrote:Thanks loads guys!

Gary, the paint is from Rothko & Frost. Very easy to just paint the cavity. To ground the paint you can either paint up over the lip to a screw hole where it will touch the guard shielding, or you can do it like Yamaha did and run a wire from the back of a pot and screw the other end down into the cavity somewhere.
thanks Ben, can't even count the amount of times you've helped me out!
As for the grounding method, is there much difference between painting over the lip or grounding with wire?
I'm not sure if the guard even has sheilding tape on it anywhere you'd recommend getting that from? seems kinda pricey on WD.
thanks again!

edit: just seen they do sheilding tape on that site also. Thanks!

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by ludobag1 » Wed Sep 26, 2012 3:56 am

fantastic color :w00t:
as i see you polish by hand like me (need a good arm only :D )

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by Leviman » Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:33 am

hubba hubba. what a great paint job!
Longhorn build http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=62236

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by BlixaFan » Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:56 am

wow awesome. looks great :)

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Re: Yamaha SG-3 & SG-2 replica project builds - polishin'

Post by theworkoffire » Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:13 pm

garyptaszek wrote: thanks Ben, can't even count the amount of times you've helped me out!
As for the grounding method, is there much difference between painting over the lip or grounding with wire?
I'm not sure if the guard even has sheilding tape on it anywhere you'd recommend getting that from? seems kinda pricey on WD.
thanks again!

edit: just seen they do sheilding tape on that site also. Thanks!
I buy it in sheets off ebay, which is a lot easier than rolls, I find. I'd always use the wire method with a painted cavity, just because it's more robust than the paint, which could wear away or crack as it goes round the corner. If you get tape with conductive adhesive you can just lip a sliver of that from a screw hole down into the cavity onto the paint - no problems there. That's how I've always done it in the past with taped cavities.
By the way, not meaning to diss your work but did you consider domed screws instead of flat-tops?
I did now! Thanks for the kick up the arse! I've just ordered a box of 40 from the states...enough to do another 12 trems ;D

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