Socket Set Screw for TOM Conversions -Jag/JM

[R_Steezy]

Let's say we have a Fender Classic Player Jaguar or Jazzmaster that came with an "adjust-o-matic" TOM bridge. Fender part# 0076230000

The idea is to remove the TOM bridge and posts, insert the right size socket set screw into the treaded thimble with an allen wrench, then use your preferred floating/rocking bridge whether that be a standard JM, Mustang, Staytrem etc. Ideally you would want the right set screw length so that it rests against the body so that your chosen bridge would be close to the right height and you can adjust the action like normal. The bridge posts would fit right into the socket set screw.

Anyone see any potential problems with this thought process? Currently I don't have a Fender/Squire TOM equipped guitar to measure, so I'm hoping others can help with sizing questions so I can order the right size socket set screws. Might try this soon.

1) What metric size are the TOM posts that come with Fender Classic Player Jag/JM?

2) Anyone know the average thimble hole depth of the body cavity of the Classic Players?
[Are the the same as vintage? THIMBLE HOLE DEPTH - 1 3/16" ( 1.1875”)]

3) What's the depth of a standard Jag/JM bridge thimble?


Socket Set Screw for reference:

[SansRegret]

Haha. I literally just had my cp jaguar hh in pieces. I just put it back together about half an hour ago. (I know this is of no help)

This would be a great solution if it works though; the thimbles are pretty tough to remove.

[Embenny]

There's a similar end-result from a different approach that's floated around the forum for the better part of a decade: http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vie ... hp?t=33498

Your idea requires a very tight specifcation of screw: one that fits the thimbles perfectly, but has the exact right size hole for a bridge to fit into. The method above just requires an offset bridge of your choosing and one drill bit, plus it retains the stock ability to adjust bridge height by just turning the TOM posts, which is very easy.

I'm not trying to discourage you, just to show you a simple option that many forum members have tried with success.

[Gavanti]

Just making certain I'm understanding this right R_Steezy. You're looking to find a wide but fairly short set screw that would effectively form a floor inside the TOM bridge inserts, turning them into a cup like the JM thimble? The set screw hole diameter would then only have to be big enough for the point of the JM bridge screw. Ideally, this would allow more forward and backward movement for the bridge than the stang-o-matic option mbene085 references (I've done that mod and liked it well enough) while hopefully minimizing lateral movement. I imagine you could use the existing thimbles as a guide to (carefully) add depth to the body for the set screw.

I feel like I've seen a thread where someone did something similar.

[Embenny]

Just making certain I'm understanding this right R_Steezy. You're looking to find a wide but fairly short set screw that would effectively form a floor inside the TOM bridge inserts, turning them into a cup like the JM thimble? The set screw hole diameter would then only have to be big enough for the point of the JM bridge screw. Ideally, this would allow more forward and backward movement for the bridge than the stang-o-matic option mbene085 references (I've done that mod and liked it well enough) while hopefully minimizing lateral movement. I imagine you could use the existing thimbles as a guide to (carefully) add depth to the body for the set screw.

I feel like I've seen a thread where someone did something similar.

Given the diameter of the TOM bridge posts, though, I don't think you'd end up with much wiggle room for the bridge to float - the screws have a minimum wall diameter, and those types of set screws have non-round sockets (e.g. the allen key one he posted), so those corners cut into the inner diameter as well. I think you'd end up with essentially a fixed-post bridge, though that wouldn't be a bad thing in the case of, say, a Mastery, which isn't designed to rock anyway.

[R_Steezy]

Thanks guys. Gavanti, yes that's exactly the idea.

mbene085, I think you might be right about the limited room to float, but I think even a little would still be worth a shot. Also, I appreciate the alternative method. It'll be considered if this turns out poorly.

If anybody out there can help out with some dimensions, I'd be really grateful.

1) I think general consensus is that Jaguar/Jazzmaster bridge thimble body routes are: Depth 1-3/16"
Now, what worries me is if TOM equipped bodies are routed deeper... anyone know?

2) M8 x 1.25 thread for the TOM. Correct?

3) Depth of actual standard thimbles? ___________

Should just be simple subtraction of the thimble and body cavity depth and I can find a ballpark estimate for the socket set screw length. I'll probably buy a range but I'd like to get as close as possible. Thanks

[Embenny]

theworkoffire posted on the board once that he measured a '60s JM and its thimble hole depth was 1 3/16". This confirms the number I have often seen floating around on the internet.

[R_Steezy]

I found an awesome post by user John999, for a different mod but it included lots of measurements.
https://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vi ... =8&t=55594

From what I have gathered, the depth of the cavity on his TOM JM was 28.3mm
For comparison vintage spec JM's are about 30.1mm
I'll use a margin of error of 2mm
The stud depth of the TOM is 22mm
An actual JM thimble has a depth of 20.5mm
I've got to make sure the screw can be backed out of the threading but still reach the body for added resonance/ accurate bridge height adjustments.

Therefore, I should be able to use 8mm or 10mm deep socket set screws. I'm thinking I'll just get flat point rather than cup or cone point... Unless people recommend otherwise..
4mm allen hex to drive it. I'll try this on a friends Jaguar Classic Player soon and report back.

M8 x 1.25 x 8mm https://www.fastenal.com/products/detai ... 0008A20000
M8 x 1.25 x 10mm https://www.fastenal.com/products/detai ... 0010A20000

[Embenny]

Definitely looking forward to your report on your results! It's a unique idea. I hope it works.

[Drewbertca]

I've sort of done this with my Squire JMJM. I couldn't find the actual proper size to fit. I don't remember if it was an imperial size I couldn't find so I got the closest Metric or the other way around, but I simply pulled my thimbles, Threaded them in from the bottom and since they weren't the proper size, they simply cross-threaded/bound after a thread or two so they are snug. It's been over a year now and they haven't moved....I didn't measure for height.

Side note - since it's only the last thread or so affected in the thimble, I am 99% sure I could return to the AOM if I wanted to.

[badform]

Oh, hey... I did this once upon a time:
https://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vi ... 75#p810875" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;