Preferred brand of caps in the preamp section

[ShortyMedlock]

Recapping my Pro Jr....already have F&T filter caps...who do you like for electrolytics?

Of course Fender uses IC...

[JSett]

Sprague atoms for me although I have used smaller F&T where they have had the sizes I need too.

[øøøøøøø]

It doesn’t matter much. What fits?

All electrolytics in that amp are power or bias supply filters, IIRC.

All coupling and cathode bypass caps are film.

The stock metallized polyester are fine. After witnessing a few controlled tests, I’ve lost all confidence in my ability to hear different coupling cap dielectrics in guitar amps (much less different brands).

So do whatever makes you happy!

[JSett]

It doesn’t matter much. What fits?

All electrolytics in that amp are power or bias supply filters, IIRC.

All coupling and cathode bypass caps are film.

The stock metallized polyester are fine. After witnessing a few controlled tests, I’ve lost all confidence in my ability to hear different coupling cap dielectrics in guitar amps (much less different brands).

So do whatever makes you happy!

I should have mentioned this as well...I only choose Sprague or F&T as they're known good quality components and I think a few extra dollars across the changeover are worth it for peace of mind.

[ryland]

I'll agree with what others have said - whatever fits and is reasonably priced. I have used MODs in my last couple builds and like them because they are small and don't break the bank.

[øøøøøøø]

One thing I like to do with almost any electrolytic is to use the highest voltage and temp rating that will physically fit

Basically, I try to never install caps that are drastically physically-smaller than the original parts (sometimes with half-century-old parts this doesn’t hold, just because the old parts were so enormous)

Virtually all component failure is ultimately heat-related, and physically-larger parts tend to run a bit cooler. Rather than any brand loyalty, I tend to look at data sheets and see what the temperature ratings are, and how lifespan is impacted by derating for voltage. Sometimes a 10,000 hour part’s lifespan starts to approach infinity if run at 50% of its rated voltage (obviously this level of derating isn’t an option for power supply filters run near 500 VDC)

[Brock the Mod]

I'll agree with what others have said - whatever fits and is reasonably priced. I have used MODs in my last couple builds and like them because they are small and don't break the bank.

Thats actually what my tech did too

[ShortyMedlock]

I bought Orange drops...kinda large but we will see how they work...

[hulakatt]

Accumulating parts to build a 5f2a, anyone ever tried Jupiter for caps? I really love their speakers.

[46346]

Accumulating parts to build a 5f2a, anyone ever tried Jupiter for caps? I really love their speakers.

i've been very happy with two restorations i did with these. they were 50s and 60s amps in nice condition, and we thought it would be cool to maintain a vintage look to the new components. we have a few friends who like to take a look under the hood from time to time, and we matched the red Astrons, and the paper/wax types, etc. probably blew and extra $60 but it was fun, and the next time i peek inside i will probably smile.

oh - sometimes the components are over-spec'd. like the paper sleeve says 100v but it may be officially 200v or some such. like the ink says what the original component spec was, but they are more robust than that.

those two amps have been good and quiet for about 5 years now.

these days with inflation, and having a few too many amps around, we recently bought some F&T's in bulk quantities among a few friends. if we each save $15-20 on a given amp repair, we can go out for a midnight supper after rehearsal! good times.

[øøøøøøø]

The Jupiter caps are fine

Are they any better or different than any other PET-film-and-foil?

That’s a much harder question to answer with anything empirical.

Capacitor rolling is a rather harmless outlet for magical thinking—and one that I participated in and believed deeply for many years.

My thinking is different now. There are empirically-measurable ways in which a capacitor can add distortions to audio, but the biggest distinctions come from:

1) dielectric material/technology (class 2 ceramic or tantalum perform very differently in some applications from polypropylene film)

2) construction method (some metallized capacitors utilize spray-on terminal connections that can perform sub-optimally in an inconsistent—but often unaccounted-for—manner)

3) application: the capacitor’s function in the circuit, input and output impedances of the relevant circuit blocks, etc. In many cases even the “worst” capacitor won’t *perform* any worse due to favorable conditions in application

Once we get down to different *brands* of polyester-and-foil, I have very little faith in my ability to distinguish anything meaningful, and prefer to focus my energies (and resources/$$$) on stuff that definitely matters (speakers, for example)