JM body refinish
- putyournamehere
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JM body refinish
Hi,
I‘ve got a mid 70s JM body with a very ugly laquer damage :
https://s12.directupload.net/images/200415/5dfgud29.jpg
I‘m not experienced in laquers and refinishes and wondered if you guys have some advice for me...
To me it looks (and feels) like there‘s a thin layer of clear laquer over a sunburst painted wood. But all laquer refinish videos I watched on YouTube have natural wood under the laquer layers so you have to strip it down completely in order to refinish the body
is there a possibility to just refinish the clear laquer layer? Or am I completely wrong?
I‘m thankful for help and insights!
I‘ve got a mid 70s JM body with a very ugly laquer damage :
https://s12.directupload.net/images/200415/5dfgud29.jpg
I‘m not experienced in laquers and refinishes and wondered if you guys have some advice for me...
To me it looks (and feels) like there‘s a thin layer of clear laquer over a sunburst painted wood. But all laquer refinish videos I watched on YouTube have natural wood under the laquer layers so you have to strip it down completely in order to refinish the body
is there a possibility to just refinish the clear laquer layer? Or am I completely wrong?
I‘m thankful for help and insights!
- terminalvertigo
- PAT. # 2.972.923
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Re: JM body refinish
you might be able to pick it off with a guitar pick or a soft scraper of some point.
does it cause as issue while playing?
does it cause as issue while playing?
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- andy_tchp
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Re: JM body refinish
Mid '70s will be poly finished.
It looks as if the clear is disintegrating and has flaked off in the brighter red section revealing the colour coat underneath.
I can't really see a feasible way of refinishing 'just the clear' that would end up with any kind of positive result - Removing it mechanically will damage the burst and body underneath, removing it chemically will remove the finish indiscriminately.
It looks as if the clear is disintegrating and has flaked off in the brighter red section revealing the colour coat underneath.
I can't really see a feasible way of refinishing 'just the clear' that would end up with any kind of positive result - Removing it mechanically will damage the burst and body underneath, removing it chemically will remove the finish indiscriminately.
"I don't know why we asked him to join the band 'cause the rest of us don't like country music all that much; we just like Graham Lee."
David McComb, 1987.
David McComb, 1987.
- s_mcsleazy
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Re: JM body refinish
keep it like that. i'm a sucker for the mid/late 70's jazzmasters.
offset guitars resident bass player.
'Are you trying to seduce me Mrs Robinson? Or do you just want me to solder a couple of resistors into your Muff?'
'Are you trying to seduce me Mrs Robinson? Or do you just want me to solder a couple of resistors into your Muff?'
- putyournamehere
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Re: JM body refinish
Not at all. Its more the look that annoys me.
Thanks for all the answers. As I‘ve expected there‘s no easy way out.
- Highnumbers
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Re: JM body refinish
Yeah, that is a poly finish (and a super heavy one, as they were doing in the 70s).
The problem with poly (either polyester or polyurethane) is that they're catalyzed finishes - once applied, they cure to a solid material (basically plastic).
That's starkly different from solvent-based finishes like lacquer, which are never 100% cured, only requiring a reintroduction of some type of solvent (thinner, for example, or even additional layers of solvent paint) to become soft again. With a lacquer finish, you can blow-in some clear coat, which will soften the old clear around it again, and blend together. That won't happen with Poly.
For this particular guitar, you can basically leave it as-is, or strip the entire thing. Basically everything else will show where the new paint meets the old paint, even when spraying clear.
The problem with poly (either polyester or polyurethane) is that they're catalyzed finishes - once applied, they cure to a solid material (basically plastic).
That's starkly different from solvent-based finishes like lacquer, which are never 100% cured, only requiring a reintroduction of some type of solvent (thinner, for example, or even additional layers of solvent paint) to become soft again. With a lacquer finish, you can blow-in some clear coat, which will soften the old clear around it again, and blend together. That won't happen with Poly.
For this particular guitar, you can basically leave it as-is, or strip the entire thing. Basically everything else will show where the new paint meets the old paint, even when spraying clear.
- mgeek
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Re: JM body refinish
+1 for just leaving it alone
I think it looks cool! Kinda like an exploding galaxy or something. If it's getting worse, ie the top coat is flaking, then perhaps looking into some way of stabilising it would be in order. I've even wicked a little superglue in a couple of times just to stop further chunks escaping (but that was on cheapos, maybe there's a more proper way')
I think it looks cool! Kinda like an exploding galaxy or something. If it's getting worse, ie the top coat is flaking, then perhaps looking into some way of stabilising it would be in order. I've even wicked a little superglue in a couple of times just to stop further chunks escaping (but that was on cheapos, maybe there's a more proper way')
-
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Re: JM body refinish
I'd leave it, but you could try plasti dip or vinyl wrap
- Unicorn Warrior
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Re: JM body refinish
Leave it be. Otherwise, If you try to refin back to original you will not have a good outcome. If you hate it you could find a professional to refin the whole thing any color you want. However, this would hit resale. Just really depends on if you can live with it or not.
- iainmayfield
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Re: JM body refinish
it's character!!!