Fender Vintera 60s Jaguar Mods?

[retrocandy]

Hi everybody, newbie here.

I just scored myself a great deal ($600!) on a new Vintera 60s Jaguar:



It's an amazing sounding guitar (love the dual pickup combo) that gets me those Beach Boys tones I've long wanted.

Anyway, I'm curious if anyone else here has this exact guitar and what mods, if any, were done to it. Right off the bat I'm thinking of swapping out the tuners for standard tuners, as I'm used to those.

This guitar goes out of tune kind of often, even without use of the vibrato arm. What could be the issue there? Maybe the bridge?

Is it possible to turn the rhythm/lead switch into a kill switch, a la the Classic Player/Modern version? I kinda got used to that with my CP Jag.

Thanks for any comments!

[philshield]

Looks awesome! I've not got one but if there are tuning issues and it's not using the trem I'd say maybe have the nut looked at? Could be it's not quite smooth and is getting the strings a little jammed up.

In terms of the kill switch you could always just turn the volume control down for the rhythm circuit then that would serve the same function, I sometimes do it with my CP JM.

[timtam]

Having a traditional-style jag and a CP jag gives you a combination with some similar setup approaches, and some totally opposite. The differences are due to the rocking bridge on the Vintera, and the fixed AOM/TOM bridge on the CP. Differences are magnified if you are a heavy trem user.

The fixed AOM/TOM bridge on the CP requires low string-saddle friction, so that the strings can slide easily over the saddles with trem use and bending - so that they do not bind there and affect tuning stability. Low string-saddle friction requires one or more of lower string gauges (less tension), low string break angle (ie lower bridge, no neck shim), and lubed saddles. Heavy trem users often swap the AOM to a roller TOM for lower friction.

The rocking bridge on the standard Vintera and similar traditional models requires high string-saddle friction, so that the strings can grip the saddles and rock the bridge with trem use - all the way forward and back to where it started. Problems arise if that bridge movement is only partial, when friction is too low, so that the bridge is moved somewhat but does not return to where it started. High friction can be achieved in one or more of the following ways: higher string gauges (higher tension), higher string break angle (ie high bridge, tapered neck shim), and no lubrication of the string-saddle interface.

Both trems have the lock button, so trem spring compression should initially be set up to the neutral, 'easy-in/easy-out' lock button position ....
https://offset.guitars/the-goodies/sett ... lo-system/
That should give the trem spring and string force a good chance of reliably returning the trem/bridge to where it started, after trem use.

[HarlowTheFish]

On my Mustang the tuners were okay, but I picked up some lockers because with the range of the Mustang trem having less string wrap helped a lot. The nut is fine but honestly a bit sketch and easily the weak point of the guitar - I don't wanna mess up the neck finish so I keep postponing a nut swap, but Graphtech is in the books for sure.

[ohm-men]

I like the nut on my Vintera Jm, nothing wrong. Some suggest graph tech, but I'm not that keen on those. A bone nut is nicer imho. (but that's just personal preference)
As far as the bridge go, try the following;
Wrap some copper shielding tape arround the bridge posts it until the bridge sits snugg (in the body). Depending on how heavy you are the trem, this trick has always helped me regarding tuning stability.

I put some vintage mustang saddles on mine. I had these in my parts drawer. As these are for 7.25" radius, they work on the vintera neck.
together with the post wrapped bridge, I do no have any string or tuning issues. The bridge on the vintera is metric and I noticed that the it rattled more then I could stand. The mustang saddles took care of that. If you go this rout, make sure you get a set that match your neck's radius.

The use of the trem lock (as mentioned by a previous poster here) is also a good option. The vintera Trem lock works well. I have a AVRI on my other Jm, but the Vintare stock trem is equal imho, when refering to usage. I like the screw in trem bar on these.

As for string tension. A set of thicker strings almost always works to eliminate buzz, slipping strings, etc..., although not everyone likes thicker strings (as in most case the nut is cut for less thick strings, creating tuning issues again). But on short scale guitars, a set of 0.11- 0.50/0.52 feel more like a set of 0.10-0.46 (at least to me, due to the lower string tension) I play jag's as well.

Another way of dealing with a better string angle is to shim the neck. I noticed that the Vintera is not shimmed that much when it comes from the facory. Mine has almost no neck angle..
I would highly suggest to get a good quality wedge shim instead of just putting a strip of plastic of wood in the back of the neck pocket. Over time this will bend the neck.
I'd also suggest not to sand the back of the neck. You could use some steel wool to take of the shine a bit.

My real advice is to have the guitar set up by a good luthier who knows his/her way arround Jaguars.
I just had a parts Jm set up and what a difference this made. The guitar not only plays better is also sounds better. Something I could not have imagened.

Although, keep in mind that a Jag will stay a Jag, no mather what you do with is. This guitar has a specific sound that imho no other guitar has. It's a kind of love/hate thing. It's not only the short scale, ot's just the whole design imho.
I personally prefer Jazzmasters, but I can't stay away from Jag's... there's just something about them....

[Ceylon]

Congratulations on a good deal! I've got one too, and I like it a lot.
As for shimming, it shouldn't be necessary. Much like your CP Jaguar, this will have an angled neck pocket, meaning a neck break angle is built into the design. Of course if you feel you need more, shimming can still be an option.

Did you get yours new from a shop? If it still has the stock strings, those will be way too thin to work properly and that might be behind your tuning problems. I use NYXL 10-52s and they're a great fit.

I also had a Staytrem to put on mine. A standard Mustang bridge or a Johnny Marr Jaguar bridge from Fender would do more or less the same in terms of improving stability though.

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

Besides from what was already said, I always give mine a treble bleed - because I like to roll of volume without altering the tone.

But please tell me where did you get such a sweet deal? In Europe there isn‘t and wasn’t a single one on the used market and the guitar stores await a delivery since april...

[manwithtitties]

Great score!

11-52s and widened nut slots will probably fix every tuning related issue. I would also just keep the rhythm volume on 0 instead of rewiring as it is just the same thing without mods. Same regarding the tuners, once youre used to these you start disliking non-vintage tuners.

[retrocandy]

Hey thanks everyone for your insights.

I definitely plan on having my luthier set this up. I'll see what he says about the tuning issue before I buy a new bridge, as I know he will probably recommend keeping the stock one.

The suggestion of turning the volume down on the rhythm setting for an effective kill switch is absolutely brilliant, I totally didn’t think of that! It’s great cause I can still use the rhythm setting. Love it, thanks guys!

Quick question: How does the switch on the tremolo work exactly?

But please tell me where did you get such a sweet deal? In Europe there isn‘t and wasn’t a single one on the used market and the guitar stores await a delivery since april...

I got the guitar off Craigslist. The owner said he just couldn’t get on with it, and I couldn’t believe I was the only one who reached out to him. In retrospect, I probably could have even talked him down to $500 but I didn’t wanna take a chance.

Did you get yours new from a shop? If it still has the stock strings, those will be way too thin to work properly and that might be behind your tuning problems. I use NYXL 10-52s and they're a great fit.

The stock strings (the guy who sold them to me must have not changed them) were so thin. I threw on 10's (what I use on my other Jag) and that's actually when the tuning problems started.

Same regarding the tuners, once youre used to these you start disliking non-vintage tuners.

Eh, I had vintage tuners on my CP Jag for years and hated them. I know I definitely want standard tuners this time.

[Ceylon]

Did you get yours new from a shop? If it still has the stock strings, those will be way too thin to work properly and that might be behind your tuning problems. I use NYXL 10-52s and they're a great fit.

The stock strings (the guy who sold them to me must have not changed them) were so thin. I threw on 10's (what I use on my other Jag) and that's actually when the tuning problems started.

Well, the nut's been cut for .009-.042s, and if you go up a size the strings might still fit into the slots - the difference isn't enormous or anything - but they no longer fit as comfortable and might snag.

On the wound strings you can loosen it and run it back and forth through the slot a couple of times, i.e. essentially using it as a file to widen the slot a bit. I think that should help with tuning a little bit, and if nothing else you've eliminated too narrow nut slots as a potential issue.

[timtam]

Quick question: How does the switch on the tremolo work exactly?

Both trems have the lock button, so trem spring compression should initially be set up to the neutral, 'easy-in/easy-out' lock button position ....
https://offset.guitars/the-goodies/sett ... lo-system/
That should give the trem spring and string force a good chance of reliably returning the trem/bridge to where it started, after trem use.

[jakeisjake]

man, that's a great deal!

I've been casually looking for one of these to pop up used (there's a sunburst one on Ebay now), but I haven't seen any.

I would have been happy to buy that!

Congrats!

[Kostop]

I threw on 10's (what I use on my other Jag) and that's actually when the tuning problems started.

This sounds like a nut problem. If it was initially setup for 9s, there could be added friction now. Nothing some filing and a pencil can't fix.
I wouldn't mess with the stock rocking bridge yet. It is designed to move back and forth and when setup properly it works just fine.

[retrocandy]

Thanks guys.

I’ve decided to keep the vintage tuners. They take a little extra time to string up but I kinda like that there’s a place to put the string end. And it looks cool.

I’ll leave the bridge be as well.

Only thing I might do at this point is swap the neckplate out for a Fender F plate. Has anyone done this? Will it fit fine?

[andy_tchp]

I’ve decided to keep the vintage tuners. They take a little extra time to string up

I've heard this a couple of times now, and I just don't understand how this can be the case?

Pull string tight towards headstock, cut string end 2-3 tuner holes past the one you're going to put it in, put string end in hole, wind tuner peg for about 15 seconds. Repeat for remaining 5 strings.