MIJ Fender VI

[Milocj]

Hi guys,
New to imgur and pretty new to actually posting here, but I was wondering if this VI is one of the more hard to find/valuable of the reissues. I bought it used about 10 years ago when it was hard to find any VI but an original and have used it off and on since then. I usually just play a Telecaster or my parts assembled Jazzmaster.

Trying here to post pics but I'm having a hard time finding info on Imgur about posting from an Android.

[F15hface]

Hi guys,
New to imgur and pretty new to actually posting here, but I was wondering if this VI is one of the more hard to find/valuable of the reissues. I bought it used about 10 years ago when it was hard to find any VI but an original and have used it off and on since then. I usually just play a Telecaster or my parts assembled Jazzmaster.

Trying here to post pics but I'm having a hard time finding info on Imgur about posting from an Android.



VI
https://imgur.com/a/rhUroWR

I can’t answer your questions but can paste these in.

[MattK]

I’m guessing the serial starts with JD12xxxxx or similar, in which case it’s one of the J-Craft ones which have two titanium rods in the neck either side of the truss rod. I bought a sunburst one, used, about the same time you did. They’re worth some pretty solid money these days it seems, a bit more than a Vintera II from the pricing in Reverb.

[Milocj]

Thanks. I've always wanted to add a mute to it but until I read more about them here I never noticed that this had a deeper bridge on it than the regular offsets do. I'll check the serial number next time I open the case.

Were these ever imported for sale in the US? I don't recall seeing any advertising for them and this was the only used one I had ever seen in a store.

[MattK]

Yes, they were in about 2013 I think, in limited numbers. I believe forum member HNB bought a red one in the US. I bought mine in Tokyo.

[Milocj]

I’m guessing the serial starts with JD12xxxxx or similar, in which case it’s one of the J-Craft ones which have two titanium rods in the neck either side of the truss rod. I bought a sunburst one, used, about the same time you did. They’re worth some pretty solid money these days it seems, a bit more than a Vintera II from the pricing in Reverb.

It's either J0130xxx or JD130xxx.

[MattK]

It'll be JD then, Dyna Gakki factory 2013.

Thirty years after its 1961 introduction, the BASS VI was reissued to the world as a Fender Japan custom edition. It was taken up by fans eagerly awaiting its release, and its original look and unique sound have been showcased in recordings and live performances by amateur and professional bassists and guitarists. 20 years later, 50 years after its first appearance, the BASS VI (now a valuable collector's item) makes a comeback in 2012 by popular demand.
In this model, the neck (which due to heavy string tension was the weak point of previous models) is reinforced with a high-purity titanium bar, giving it a tight sound.

A flat bar cold-rolled from high-purity titanium rod is used as a neck reinforcement to resist string tension and environmental changes such as temperature and humidity.

[Milocj]

^^^^^
Cool ad. I'm guessing they never ran one in the States because I had no idea they were made until mine popped up used. Is it normal for these to need a stronger trem spring and are they available anywhere? When I have mine balanced and can use the lock there is almost no down travel and I'm assuming the "clunk" is the trem collet bottoming in the cavity.

[burpgun]

I can see the value of that extra metal in the neck. I have a Pawnshop Bass VI and I don't know if it's just my bad luck but the neck is a rubber noodle: it needs periodic, like quarterly, tightentings to keep the action low in a way no other instrument I've owned does. Makes me worry about the long term outlook for the neck.

[MattK]

Sounds a little troubling. The only advice I can think of is to apply the straightening force to the neck with something like your knee against a brace, then snug the nut up, instead of using the nut to apply the force. That way there’s less risk of stripping the nut. If you run out of adjustment room you can put washers behind the nut, but on the Squier that would involve drilling out the hole in the headstock and finding washers that fit the small space available.

[burpgun]

Sounds a little troubling. The only advice I can think of is to apply the straightening force to the neck with something like your knee against a brace, then snug the nut up, instead of using the nut to apply the force. That way there’s less risk of stripping the nut. If you run out of adjustment room you can put washers behind the nut, but on the Squier that would involve drilling out the hole in the headstock and finding washers that fit the small space available.

Thanks for the suggestion. Each time I have to do it a quarter tightening works, and I have no idea whether something's slipping or what the hell is going on, as no instrument I've ever owned did this. I'm the orginal owner so it's possible one day I might have to test Fender's warranty. The instrument was more precious given that at the time I bought it we didn't have the flood of Squiers and later more Fender-badged IVs. If the neck does implode one day I'll probably just slap some aftermarket thing on it.

[MattK]

Sorry - late at night I misread which model it was. Does the Pawnshop adjust at the headstock or the neck heel? The latter would make things a bit easier for washers.