OffsetGuitars.com

Sorry, still figuring out how to post images here. Hope it works this time!

Guitar:



My girlfriend filing the saddles



Result: 11mm between G and D, 10mm between other strings. She managed to make the cavities of exactly the same depth as originals, so strings don't pop out even with aggressive strumming!

Sorry if this has been asked, but I couldn't find the answer.

Regarding the two strangle switches, does the "universal bright" switch have an effect on position 4 (in series) and the second switch has an additional effect on position 4

or

does the universal bright switch have no effect on position 4 and only the second switch has an effect?

Thanks!

gretschbigsby wrote: ↑

Thu May 07, 2020 4:55 am

Sorry if this has been asked, but I couldn't find the answer.

Regarding the two strangle switches, does the "universal bright" switch have an effect on position 4 (in series) and the second switch has an additional effect on position 4

or

does the universal bright switch have no effect on position 4 and only the second switch has an effect?

Thanks!

Think of the Marr jag as functionally the same as a regular jag, with the addition of the series connection and its associated series bright switch.

The regular strangle/bright operates in all positions of the 4way (as do the volume and tone controls). The series bright only operates when series is selected on the 4way. So when series is selected, both bright switches are in circuit.

A good way to clearly see what is in circuit with different switch positions is to print out as many copies of a schematic (like the Marr's below) as there are switch positions. Then use a highlight pen to highlight the circuit lines that are in circuit for each switch position, one printout per position. Be careful to distinguish between wires that cross in the schematic without joining - shown by the little arc 'over' in one line - and those that are joined where they cross (no arc). And that for a pickup to be in circuit, both sides must connected to something - if either side is not connected to anything then that pickup is effectively open circuit .. so not in circuit - you will see that the 4way uses that technique to bring pickups in/out of circuit.

Yeah! That looks stellar.

unkilledbear wrote: ↑

Thu May 07, 2020 2:14 am

Sorry, still figuring out how to post images here. Hope it works this time!

Guitar:



My girlfriend filing the saddles



Result: 11mm between G and D, 10mm between other strings. She managed to make the cavities of exactly the same depth as originals, so strings don't pop out even with aggressive strumming!

Thanks timtam... that is awesome.

Gotta love Sherwood Green! Congrats!!!

You might want to put a Spitfire guard on it...

^

Like many in this thread I’m a massive fan of the Sherwood green JM jag, I’d even told myself I was content to wait things out until I had the chance to snag one at the right price...

A week or so ago though, I came across a local listing for a JM Jag in LPB; brand new, unplayed and still in the box it shipped in for just $1300!

After arranging a contactless pickup, I brought the guitar back to my apartment and have been having a lot of fun with it ever since.



edit: I was having a bit of an issue with some buzz on the G string but it is probably because of the gauge/age of the strings I had on hand as well as the break angle from the nut. I’m gonna grab a new set of 11s and hope that does the trick!

How long were those 10s lying around? Could just be a bad\old string. Personally, I wouldn't go thinner than 11s on a Jag and 11's were probably the factory set so I'd go get a fresh set of 11's and see if the problem goes away. Good luck. Nice deal on a beautiful Marr Jag.

Cheers!

You’re probably right on the mark, I hadn’t thought about the age of the strings, I just grabbed the first set I had lying around which have admittedly been sitting in a gig bag for some time.

I’ll grab some newer 11s and see if they’re a little more lively.

Hello everyone.... got a question.... in a word : PICKGUARDS

I've been scrolling through the hundreds of pages about the JM Jag and I see that some of you have amazing looking spitfire guards. I don't know that I can spend 250+ on a pickguard without getting eviscerated by my wife. Are there other sites that have compatible ones that aren't bank breakers?

Lastly, is changing the pickguard a big deal? I'm not handy and usually take my guitars into "my guy" for changes... I'm worried if I had to do anything beyond remove strings to swap the pickguard - that I'd have to unscrew a bridge or whatever and I would RUIN everything.

One last thing.... I love this bright red tortoise that seems to have come on the MIJ 66 Jags.... but other than spitfire which has a bright red version - everyone else has stuff that looks more burgundy. Any tips/sites????

Here's what I'm hunting for... colorwise:
https://images.reverb.com/image/upload/ ... jpqvpf.jpg

Thank you!!

lexaunculpt wrote: ↑

Tue May 26, 2020 1:26 pm

Hello everyone.... got a question.... in a word : PICKGUARDS

I've been scrolling through the hundreds of pages about the JM Jag and I see that some of you have amazing looking spitfire guards. I don't know that I can spend 250+ on a pickguard without getting eviscerated by my wife. Are there other sites that have compatible ones that aren't bank breakers?

Lastly, is changing the pickguard a big deal? I'm not handy and usually take my guitars into "my guy" for changes... I'm worried if I had to do anything beyond remove strings to swap the pickguard - that I'd have to unscrew a bridge or whatever and I would RUIN everything.

One last thing.... I love this bright red tortoise that seems to have come on the MIJ 66 Jags.... but other than spitfire which has a bright red version - everyone else has stuff that looks more burgundy. Any tips/sites????

Here's what I'm hunting for... colorwise:
https://images.reverb.com/image/upload/ ... jpqvpf.jpg

Thank you!!

Changing the pickguard is super easy. You should be able to handle it with nothing but a screwdriver.

You could check out Neagle Luthier at https://reverb.com/shop/neagle-luthier. He makes pickguards for Johnny Marr Jags. I've never bought one but probably will eventually. I'm sure others have some experience with his work.

Ok - so I literally have to do nothing besides pop the strings off and unscrew the existing guard? nothing with the PUPs or the bridge???

lexaunculpt wrote: ↑

Tue May 26, 2020 2:10 pm

Ok - so I literally have to do nothing besides pop the strings off and unscrew the existing guard? nothing with the PUPs or the bridge???

You'll need to remove the bridge, which is simply a matter of lifting it out of the bridge thimbles once the strings are off. On a Jaguar everything else (control plates, pickups) are screwed down to the body. Just remove strings, lift the bridge out of the thimbles, unscrew the pickguard screws, remove the existing guard, replace with new guard. Screw pickguard screws in, replace bridge, restring. Done deal!

sorry to be such a pest... so "lifting out of the thimbles"

Does this mean that the bridge isn't screwed in or mounted? Is there a specific height or any consideration when I put it back in - or is it one of those - you can't screw it up, it only fits in ONE way kind of things?

Thanks again - I just would love to not have to take it in for something if it's not necessary and I'm horrified that I'll do something lame with the bridge due to my inexperience/ineptitude and then it will need a setup and all that

lexaunculpt wrote: ↑

Tue May 26, 2020 2:28 pm

sorry to be such a pest... so "lifting out of the thimbles"

Does this mean that the bridge isn't screwed in or mounted? Is there a specific height or any consideration when I put it back in - or is it one of those - you can't screw it up, it only fits in ONE way kind of things?

Thanks again - I just would love to not have to take it in for something if it's not necessary and I'm horrified that I'll do something lame with the bridge due to my inexperience/ineptitude and then it will need a setup and all that

No worries, you'll find most all the members of this forum are a pretty patient and helpful bunch.

So, the bridge is held in solely by downforce from string tension--once the strings are removed it will simply lift straight out of its thimbles (the metal cups that the legs of the bridge insert into). That's it!

All of the adjustment screws on the bridge should hold place just fine while the bridge is off--just make sure it's facing the same direction (with the six saddle adjustment screw heads pointing toward the tailpiece) when you insert it back in so that the saddles remain properly intonated, and you should be all set; no tech or setup adjustment needed.