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Anyone think it would be worth getting the graph tech mustang saddles and sanding the sides down to get it narrower and putting them on one of the mentioned narrow bridges? Not afraid of the tonal differences, I’ve got graphtechs on my prs and actually liked the sound better over the old steel saddles.

gibs wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 24, 2021 3:35 pm

Anyone think it would be worth getting the graph tech mustang saddles and sanding the sides down to get it narrower and putting them on one of the mentioned narrow bridges? Not afraid of the tonal differences, I’ve got graphtechs on my prs and actually liked the sound better over the old steel saddles.

If you're gonna do this, you probably want the AmPro plastic bushings to stop the bridge from rocking. The Graphtech saddles are slippery, so it's probably gonna throw off the bridge's rocking action (which is why you want the bushings to stabilize it). You actually don't need to trim the saddles, they're already good for ~52mm spacing, but you do need to ground the electronics through the trem rather the bridge posts, because the saddles aren't conductive.

The graphtech saddles are already narrower.

There are many 'gappy' saddled bridge available and i think the All Parts one is.

That is, on a wider spaced bridge they have gaps, buzz and slide about.

On a narrower bridge plate...maybe they dont have gaps any more. I dont know what string spacing the saddles will have but they already have much less than 56mm even if the bridge does.
Because they usually come with gaps you DONT want.

52mm spacing requires barrels that are 10.4mm wide. You could sand down the sides of a height-adjustable bridge's saddles like the (55-56mm) Warmoth Modified Mustang bridge, for a narrower-spaced bridge plate.
https://warmoth.com/index.php/modified-mustang-bridge
There are few other options for a set of metal height-adjustable saddles with about the right width. With Graphtech saddles being low friction material, they are inconsistent with the high string-saddle friction required for the rocking bridge. There are these 10.5mm gold metal ones that will get your close (only in that colour it seems) ...
https://www.eyguitarmusic.com/6pcs-of-B ... _2746.html

timtam wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 24, 2021 7:54 pm

52mm spacing requires barrels that are 10.4mm wide. You could sand down the sides of a height-adjustable bridge's saddles like the (55-56mm) Warmoth Modified Mustang bridge, for a narrower-spaced bridge plate.
https://warmoth.com/index.php/modified-mustang-bridge
There are few other options for a set of metal height-adjustable saddles with about the right width. With Graphtech saddles being low friction material, they are inconsistent with the high string-saddle friction required for the rocking bridge. There are these 10.5mm gold metal ones that will get your close (only in that colour it seems) ...
https://www.eyguitarmusic.com/6pcs-of-B ... _2746.html

That actually would look kinda cool, like PRS with their hybrid hardware. Planning on using a gold anadized pick guard, so it wouldn’t look totally out of place with the rest of the hardware being chrome/nickel. I could get gold nuts and bushings for the tuners, selector switch, etc. just to keep with the look.

adamrobertt wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 21, 2021 5:46 pm

IMO the newest production AVRI units don't need the "hammer trick" or any kind of intervention. In 2012 they redesigned the arm and collet and it stays tight for a long time now.

Yes, I bought an AVRI last year to replace the garbage trem that came with my HAZE Jazzmaster and it works as it should. Well worth the $$.

HarlowTheFish wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 24, 2021 4:16 pm

gibs wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 24, 2021 3:35 pm

Anyone think it would be worth getting the graph tech mustang saddles and sanding the sides down to get it narrower and putting them on one of the mentioned narrow bridges? Not afraid of the tonal differences, I’ve got graphtechs on my prs and actually liked the sound better over the old steel saddles.

If you're gonna do this, you probably want the AmPro plastic bushings to stop the bridge from rocking. The Graphtech saddles are slippery, so it's probably gonna throw off the bridge's rocking action (which is why you want the bushings to stabilize it). You actually don't need to trim the saddles, they're already good for ~52mm spacing, but you do need to ground the electronics through the trem rather the bridge posts, because the saddles aren't conductive.

I have the saddles on my Bass VI, I'm not finding the rocking action impeded by the saddles, but I'm also running a shim in the neck.

After looking at the Am Pro II a little closer, I have realized that with the exception of the tuners not being locking, and that I wouldn’t mind the noiseless pickups from the ultra (which probably wouldn’t be compatible with the coil tap on the Am Pro) and of course the finish options. This guitar is essentially what I’m trying to build. It has all the stuff that’s not easy to do to an existing guitar without major work (sculpted heel, which would require a refinish, 22 fret neck on a JM, which is still a bit rare on most JMs, also 9.5” radius which is my preference over 7.25” like what was all that was available when I first dreamed this guitar up 10 years ago). Sure I’d love to do one with ash body in Mary Kay, flame maple roasted neck (or a one piece rosewood neck, I’m all over on that part of the build) and an anodized gold guard with black plastic parts. But this feels like a much easier option than sourcing everything. Only problem is fronting the money all at once, verses roughly 3/4 the amount over a span of time and working on it as time allows. I was thinking the rothstien super mod wiring for my build, but the Am Pro II’s use of the rhythm circuit and series/parallel seems more versatile to me. Might need to start a new thread to see if anyone has one to pull the guard and dissect the wiring and pot values.