T-O-M ???

Stereordinary · Post by **Stereordinary** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 3:13 pm

My thought was an Alen-wrench screw that secures the bridge to it's posts (like the TonePros hardware). You could leave it loose if you wanted no lock at all and the bridge itself could sit on ball-end posts. Or something like that. I'll draw it up.

Post by **mynameisjonas** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:55 am

ball-end posts you say... i like the way you think..

Stereordinary · Post by **Stereordinary** » Fri Oct 06, 2006 4:36 pm

I also found this.

Has anyone ever tried putting one of these on an offset?

TheMilford · Post by **TheMilford** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:10 pm

What about a side set-screw ala G&L to "lock" the saddles from the side so that don't buzz... will also help sustain.

mjet · Post by **mjet** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:48 pm

stereordinary wrote: I also found this.
Has anyone ever tried putting one of these on an offset?

I tried to find an original Coronado bridge for 3 years and found 2 on eBay - one was for a Coronado XII and went for $200, and mine went for around $100. Not terribly practical, sourcing-wise.

TheMilford · Post by **TheMilford** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:58 pm

mjet260 wrote:
stereordinary wrote: I also found this.
Has anyone ever tried putting one of these on an offset?
I tried to find an original Coronado bridge for 3 years and found 2 on eBay - one was for a Coronado XII and went for $200, and mine went for around $100. Not terribly practical, sourcing-wise.

but maybe we can have a machinist copy it

DarrelT · Post by **DarrelT** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:03 pm

I thought I smelled a Coro. :D

The Coronado trem unit bridge is very similar to the JM/Jag design. Instead of thimble, the round feet have an inverted conical shape in which the bridge pin pivots.

An yes, I have used one on my JM, along with a USAGC Bass VI neck. In order to intonage properly, the bridge ended up in the space between the pickguard and the trem plate. The problem was that the close proximity of the bridge to the trem combined with the VI string set, made the trem phyically difficult to operate. The bridge limited the trem bar movement.

I believe the bridge also sat very high, forcing me the shim the neck a bit.

Stereordinary · Post by **Stereordinary** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:12 pm

Okay, here's a rough one.

(Crap, my photo disappeared)

Ender76 · Post by **Ender76** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 8:20 am

On my JM, I got some black rubber tubing (the shrink-wrap kind for electrical wiring), cut it to length and also cut it along the side, so I could wrap it around the bridge post. The bridge now fits snuggly into the postholes and doesn't rock anymore. (Also, I put Graphtech saddles on it.)

Stereordinary · Post by **Stereordinary** » Thu Nov 09, 2006 6:41 pm

Both of those sound like good ideas, except that wouldn't using something as soft as rubber tubing absorb tons of your vibration?

Pumpkin · Post by **Pumpkin** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 1:28 am

One good thing about using a ABR TOM is you can always change back to a jag bridge as it fits perfectly in the ABR thimbles just as it should,although when i installed it i left the bottoms of the jag thimbles in there and cut the difference off of the TOM ones with the intention of using the stock once again.

I put a tom on my jag for about 6weeks but i just changed back to the original bridge and imo its far better than a tom.Ive never had problems with the screws coming loose as i put that much super glue on there you cant undo them anymore,the intonation screws are fine tho.

Overall i think a stock jag bridge is the best ive ever used and really can't understand all the problems people say they have with it,just takes some patience to get to know your guitar.

eyesadrift · Post by **eyesadrift** » Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:02 pm

yah i changed the stock bridge of my jazz to a mustang one had it on there for about a year that felt pretty good
then i bought another one jazz and decided to try a TOM and after a while i started to like the feel of the TOM more so i switched the bridges (casue i didnt like the other jazz as much)
so i guess its just up to personal choice and sometimes you have to take a chance to see if you like something or not
and im glad i did

donnyII · Post by **donnyII** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 12:59 am

im in the process of parting together a JM. Im thinking about taking the TOM route from the get-go. On my jag, i put a warmoth "modified mustang bridge" on it right away. I cant really use stock jag/jazz bridges at all. i play semi fast 70s style rock and roll, and tend to play pretty hard live. I end up knocking the strings out of the saddles. I havent had a problem with the mustang bridges. In building this JM one of the main things im going for is tuning stability. Has anyone had a problem with the saddles on a TOM being spaced too wide for the neck?

Post by **mynameisjonas** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 2:31 am

donnyII wrote: Has anyone had a problem with the saddles on a TOM being spaced too wide for the neck?

not me. the strings line up perfectly with the pole pieces of the bridge pickup (dead center on each one), which would mean the spacing is pretty close to being the same as on a JM/jag/mustang bridge.

Superfuzz · Post by **Superfuzz** » Sat Nov 18, 2006 9:55 am

mynameisjonas wrote:
donnyII wrote: Has anyone had a problem with the saddles on a TOM being spaced too wide for the neck?
not me. the strings line up perfectly with the pole pieces of the bridge pickup (dead center on each one), which would mean the spacing is pretty close to being the same as on a JM/jag/mustang bridge.

With mine the sixth and the first string don't line up perfectly on the neck pick up so they don't sound so full like the other..but that spacing is better for the neck, because with the standard bridge I tend to pull the sixth string out from the fingerboard..

OffsetGuitars.com

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