Staytrem-like bridges for a 12 in radius?

[Vendetagainst]

Hey all,

I apologise if this is the wrong place to post this. I finished a Jazzmaster build with a 12 in radius aluminium neck recently, and it's absolutely perfect except for one thing: the Warmoth Modified Mustang bridge I have on it keeps on ringing to the point of affecting sustain, the adjustment screws keep on coming loose, and the string spacing is 55 mm. I shimmed the neck and put 11s, and that fixed most of the problem, but the screws still come loose and it still rings a bit. I would use Loctite, but I didn't cheap out on the rest of the hardware so I think I should get a quality bridge.

I was considering getting a Mastery but it doesn't look quite right, it's not rocking, and I heard that the adjustment screws can wiggle loose on that too. I feel that if I'm spending that much money on a quality bridge I shouldn't have to Loctite it. I was looking around and it really seems like the Staytrem is the best option (because of no screws and 52 mm spacing), and they make a 12 in version if you ask. But y'all probably know by now that they do not ship outside the UK. So are there any Staytrem-like bridges for a 12-in radius? I'm also open to other bridge options that stop ringing too.

Thanks!

[pscates]

Yeah, this Staytrem situation is a real bite.

I hope/wish that things go back to the way they were, or he eventually sells the design/machining to someone else who'd be up for proper full manufacturing/output, worldwide, once again.

They're the best option going, solving all the little things that need solving/addressing, and while still looking the part.

A shame that they're next-to-impossible to come by anymore. I wish I knew someone in the UK. It sucks that something so good is such a challenge to acquire now.

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

What about the new Halon Bridges? They can be adjusted (or at least ordered) to your desired radius and specs you like (steel, brass, bronze saddles,...) https://youtu.be/viES3qFHnIA (the Halon Bridge description starts at around min 12) or replacement saddles for a vintage style bridge?

I can‘t complain about my Mastery and I already have it for 4+ years now - playing on an almost daily basis and never had an issue! It‘s non rocking but there is movement and not so much friction that it would hurt. Other than that - a Roller Bridge? Non-rocking but rolling?!

[SWFC68]

Are the Halons even available? They don't seem to be listed on the website in the store, even though there's a shot of an offset bridge and trem unit on the front page

[Debaser]

Just loctite or clear lacquer the screws. Teflon tape the bridge post screws while youre at it. There’s nothing wrong in doing this, on an expensive bridge or dirt cheap. The modified Mustang bridge is the only way to get the radius you want, but at the cost of the string to string width.

If you decide to go roller, and not Mastery, then I’d get an ABM 2400 roller. The bridge frame is machined brass, it’s high quality and 12” radius with a 52mm string spacing. I use them on all stud mounted bridge with a Bigsby or Floating Trem. Flawless and solid bar bridge tone. Not cheap anymore though. I bought several from Thomann for about 115 shipped to the States. Of course, you’d have to convert to TOM studs...most offset guys go the other way around

[Vendetagainst]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! I still have some time before I need to buy a new bridge so I'll keep these all in mind.

[Lost In Autumn]

It's sort of expensive, but a Fender American Pro bridge will get you 52mm spacing and GraphTech saddles will get you an adjustable radius; at the end of the day, it's cheaper than a Mastery.

[Larry Mal]

I had thought that the Halon bridge was ready to be purchased, but this website of theirs is completely unusable. Maybe the contact us information is accurate, but the rest of the website is just broken links and misspellings and shit.

[jorri]

Just loctite or clear lacquer the screws. Teflon tape the bridge post screws while youre at it. There’s nothing wrong in doing this, on an expensive bridge or dirt cheap. The modified Mustang bridge is the only way to get the radius you want, but at the cost of the string to string width.

If you decide to go roller, and not Mastery, then I’d get an ABM 2400 roller. The bridge frame is machined brass, it’s high quality and 12” radius with a 52mm string spacing. I use them on all stud mounted bridge with a Bigsby or Floating Trem. Flawless and solid bar bridge tone. Not cheap anymore though. I bought several from Thomann for about 115 shipped to the States. Of course, you’d have to convert to TOM studs...most offset guys go the other way around

Modified mustang bridges are available from other brands other than warmoth. I'm using the extremely cheap ones on eBay with no issue, if anything though sounded better than the standard mustang. The chrome may de-laminate a bit but fine with me. No gaps so maybe is an improvment on the Warmoth despite 'inferior metal' (if i remember the Warmoth has gaps between saddles?)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jazzmaster-M ... Sw0IBehL5A

I think the spacing is wider, but not the states 56mm, more like 54mm but could always measure if after narrower spacing like Staytrem.

So, that and some loctite and you're all set? Well its cheap enough to risk it.

[jorri]

* I just saw one selling for under £7 below that listing

[epizootics]

I think I posted something here about those cheap bridges before - and how nice they are for their price. Contrary to what the sellers say, the saddles and frame are steel, not zinc alloy. Plating is usually not that great, but who cares?

The one thing you may want to check with those is the set screws inside the posts. In my experience, they are a bit too flat at the bottom, which makes their rocking action less precise. They are really easy to swap though. As for most Chinese bridges, they are in Metric size (M3). Get a few cone-point M3 grub screws in the right length off eBay and you'll be set. The bog-standard 8.8 screws with a black finish work perfectly well. Check them once a year or so for wear.

The other thing is the saddle height screws. Depending on how you set up your bridge, they can stick out of the saddle and make the playing less comfortable. If so, measure your saddle height and order a few M3, cone-point set screws a hair shorter than your saddle height. You can get a few different lengths to match your bridge radius. Chances are they will be an improvement on the original screws, and less likely to fail.

[jorri]

Am i right about short intonation screws too or was that my mod? I either modded short ones, or perhaps i added the single long one for the high E.

My low E saddle has no chrome. Chrome is fine for the rest. Its brown and corroded , so i dont think steel, but then doesnt seem like brass colour either.