Staytrem Bridge advice

[adamrobertt]

So...update. I took the strings off and the bridge out to look at it in more detail. Definitely no movement in the legs as far as I can see. If I give it a good shake there is a tiny amount of movement/noise from the saddles/screws, but nothing that shouldn't be stopped by strings under tension.

I raised the bridge slightly, put it back, put new strings on (9-42 because that's all I have to hand), and now it seems loads better. The action is a little high, but not unplayable by any means.

I am going to see if I can find a luthier within driving distance who can give it a proper set up (perhaps with a shim)...and in the meantime I am just going to get on and play it. I also realised that I maybe notice buzzes more than I should because I often pick it up and play it acoustically. I probably should worry less about that and more about what it sounds like plugged in (which is pretty good).

You definitely need a shim. This is standard Jazzmaster and Jaguar setup routine at this point. Also I'd suggest using at least 10s - the "you have to use heavy strings" thing is sort of BS, but I feel like 9s are maybe pushing it a little.

The shim will let you raise the bridge while still having low action.

[Snowmonkey]

Those photos aren't showing up btw.

Thanks for letting me know. Will try and get them working...

[ChrisDesign]

Heavier strings also help. If you play 9-46, try 10-28. The extra downward force to let your bridge work closer to its original design. Go as heavy as you can while still being happy. Personally, I use 10-52. I can bend all I need to and get great rhythm on the low strings. https://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/strings ... lthb-p2582

You also need a shim, as the post above explains.

[djspecialist]

I received a Staytrem bridge last week. I have a set of Mastery MT thimbles - does anyone know whether these are compatible? I understand the Staytrem is designed to rock, but the posts feel pretty loose within the thimbles.

[adamrobertt]

I received a Staytrem bridge last week. I have a set of Mastery MT thimbles - does anyone know whether these are compatible? I understand the Staytrem is designed to rock, but the posts feel pretty loose within the thimbles.

Yes, the Mastery thimbles are basically the same as normal ones, just manufactured to tighter tolerances to completely immobilize the Mastery bridge.

A normal, rocking offset bridge (including the Staytrem) will be very loose in the thimbles by design. There should be several millimeters of clearance all around, and the bridge will fall out of the body without strings if you turn it upside down. That's all totally normal.

[djspecialist]

I received a Staytrem bridge last week. I have a set of Mastery MT thimbles - does anyone know whether these are compatible? I understand the Staytrem is designed to rock, but the posts feel pretty loose within the thimbles.

Yes, the Mastery thimbles are basically the same as normal ones, just manufactured to tighter tolerances to completely immobilize the Mastery bridge.

A normal, rocking offset bridge (including the Staytrem) will be very loose in the thimbles by design. There should be several millimeters of clearance all around, and the bridge will fall out of the body without strings if you turn it upside down. That's all totally normal.

Thanks - that's exactly what I needed to know

[Lost In Autumn]

always shim the neck.

[bjornsynneby]

Shim and string gauge 0.010 or higher. Staytrem is the best bridge IMHO.

Another explanation for buzzing can be the difference btw E -E distance of the MIK classic player tremolo unit (56-57 mm) and the Staytrem bridge (52 mm). The strings angle at the bridge and put an outward force on the strings. This outward force on the strings can make the string roll up just enough for the string to buzz against the bottom of the groove. Now, Staytrem is very well built and the saddles should be able to handle that outward force. This is just to keep in mind if the buzzing does not go away when you shim the neck.

[RocknRollShakeUp]

Low neck angle (no shim) + 9’s = a Jazzmaster’s worst nightmare ! For causing buzzing that is.

I agree with all the peeps above, sounds like you need a shim and heavier strings.

I also straighten the neck so it has very low relief, like .006” to no more than .008”. This will allow the bridge to sit higher for a better string over bridge break angle. But you need good fret work to allow this or you may get too much fret buzz.

On one JM, I run a .25deg shim, on another a .5deg.

I also run nothing lighter than a 10 gauge top with an 11 gauge bottom.

I haven’t tried one, but the Descendant vibrato seems like it should allow lighter strings, all else being equal, since it improves the bridge string brake angle from the Vibrato string anchoring end.

Lastly, going from the wider string spacing saddles like on a Mustang bridge to the narrow string spacing like on the Staytrem can increase buzzing, esp. in the low E string, all else being equal. This is because the added side tension on the strings caused by the wider spaced saddles can actually mitigate some of the buzz. But for me at least, I prefer the more narrow string spacing like on the Staytrem.

[Snowmonkey]

Right, shim it is!

Also, although I prefer the 52mm spacing at the bridge, I didn't think about the fact that the trem would be spaced too far. Hmmmm....new tremolo...?

[Snowmonkey]

Can someone confirm what trem I need to get for 52 mm? This doesn't seem to be marked on the description... thanks in advance.

[Snowmonkey]

Another thought....I never actually use the tremolo. Don't ever have the arm in there. So perhaps I could try a hardtail plate (I know this is sacreligous)... which is another way of increasing the break angle without taking the neck off.

[HarlowTheFish]

A slightly wider trem won't do much, because the strings are getting narrower towards the nut anyway -- it's just following the existing line. A narrower trem (MIJ) could be a bit problematic, because now you're asking the strings to widen between the trem and bridge, then narrow again between the bridge and nut. Just get an AVRI, Fender uses those with the 52mm AmPro bridges and it hasn't been an issue.

[adamrobertt]

Another thought....I never actually use the tremolo. Don't ever have the arm in there. So perhaps I could try a hardtail plate (I know this is sacreligous)... which is another way of increasing the break angle without taking the neck off.

The hardtail plates that I know of won't really change the break angle at all, they're basically the same geometry as the tremolo, just without the spring and arm.

Taking the neck off isn't really that big of a deal, I'd wager that swapping out the tailpiece will take about the same amount of time as shimming the neck.

[Snowmonkey]

Actually, I had a look at those hardtail plates and they don't look right. I will stick with the plan to shim...