-= Bridge FAQ =-

For help with setups and other technical issues.
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SadFuzz
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by SadFuzz » Tue Oct 06, 2020 6:02 am

ShatoonBringerOfCorn wrote:
Tue Oct 06, 2020 4:58 am
Anyone got any tips on stopping the height adjustment screws on my bridge sinking? It's a CV jag with the mustang style bridge. The high e side of the bridge just keeps sinking down and ends up putting the guitar out of tune and the top strings too close to the fretboard. I thought about locktite, but I don't know how long it takes to "cure" and worry it will set before I get the bridge in and strings on, so by the time I set the height, it'll have cured and I'll end up having to "break" the lock in order to set the height
This happened with my Squier vintage mod JM. Loctite worked, i just let it dry for a day.
Eventually i wanted to adjust it so i scrubbed it all out and used pva glue. I later found out that i could still adjust the height but with the crud i'd managed to build up on the screws it stayed where i put it. No sinking issues since.
Its a crude method but it worked for me.

If you're worried about not being happy with where its glued you could always adjust it with the strings on till you're happy then loosen them to pull the bridge out and lock it.
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ShatoonBringerOfCorn
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by ShatoonBringerOfCorn » Tue Oct 06, 2020 6:53 am

That's what I was thinking of doing! Since it worked for you, I'll give it a try!

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andy_tchp
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by andy_tchp » Tue Oct 06, 2020 2:44 pm

ShatoonBringerOfCorn wrote:
Tue Oct 06, 2020 4:58 am
Anyone got any tips on stopping the height adjustment screws on my bridge sinking? It's a CV jag with the mustang style bridge. The high e side of the bridge just keeps sinking down and ends up putting the guitar out of tune and the top strings too close to the fretboard. I thought about locktite, but I don't know how long it takes to "cure" and worry it will set before I get the bridge in and strings on, so by the time I set the height, it'll have cured and I'll end up having to "break" the lock in order to set the height
'Full' curing takes 24 hours, so there's no issue. And you've got a good 10 minute window before you start feeling major resistance adjusting the fasteners.
  • Set the desired bridge height.

    Slacken strings and remove bridge.

    Wind height adjustment screws 'in' (clockwise) two full turns.

    Apply low or mid-strength (purple or blue) sparingly to the threads that are now exposed at the posts.

    Wind the adjustment screws back 'out' (counter-clockwise) two full turns and pop the bridge back on.

    Tune back up to pitch, and make final adjustments to suit.

The low and mid-strength products are designed for future disassembly/adjustment with basic hand tools in mind.
"I don't know why we asked him to join the band 'cause the rest of us don't like country music all that much; we just like Graham Lee."
David McComb, 1987.

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timtam
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by timtam » Tue Oct 06, 2020 6:28 pm

If your bridge is on the high side, the length of bridge height grub screw not in contact with the post's internal thread is obviously increased. So for metric bridges like the CV's it may be worth getting longer M3 conical tip grub screws (#4-40 for imperial bridges), commonly made up to 16mm (measure the length of what you have, often 12mm, to see what real benefit you'll get from the extra length), then add the blue loctite ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M3-M4-304-Stai ... 2614783479
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Grub-Screws-Co ... 3433647640

I've also experimented a little with homemade anti-sink plastic bushings like on the Staytrem/Marr/TVL bridges, but I haven't come up with anything I'd recommend. Maybe others have had more success.
"I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar." Rowland S. Howard.

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Deadman1
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by Deadman1 » Fri Nov 06, 2020 12:51 pm

New CIJ Jag (04-06) owner here guys, apologies if this has been asked before...

I have a mustang bridge on mine at the moment and the string spacing is way off ( in relation to the pup poles) and the high e keeps slipping out of the saddle. It also chokes with some mild bending. E to E measurement on this bridge (i.e. saddle slot to saddle slot) is 55mm.

My question is would a 52mm E to E upgrade (I'm in the UK so I'm thinking Staytrem) be worth a look?

Thanks in advance.

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adamrobertt
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by adamrobertt » Fri Nov 06, 2020 2:04 pm

Deadman1 wrote:
Fri Nov 06, 2020 12:51 pm
New CIJ Jag (04-06) owner here guys, apologies if this has been asked before...

I have a mustang bridge on mine at the moment and the string spacing is way off ( in relation to the pup poles) and the high e keeps slipping out of the saddle. It also chokes with some mild bending. E to E measurement on this bridge (i.e. saddle slot to saddle slot) is 55mm.

My question is would a 52mm E to E upgrade (I'm in the UK so I'm thinking Staytrem) be worth a look?

Thanks in advance.
A narrower bridge will help the strings slipping off the neck, yes. It won't fix the strings popping out of the saddle or notes choking, though. Also don't get too obsessed with the string alignment over the pole pieces, it is never perfect.

To fix string jumping out of the saddles, you should shim the neck and raise your bridge. To fix notes choking out, you need to do a full setup, make sure the truss rod is where it should be, and the action is proper... if you still have issues after that, you may have a high fret somewhere.

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Deadman1
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by Deadman1 » Fri Nov 06, 2020 2:19 pm

Man, that's a lot to take in for a newbie but extremely helpful. Thank you mate. I'll work through it all one bit at a time.

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jorri
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by jorri » Fri Nov 27, 2020 9:24 am

Is all good to know which trem or bridge to buy....

But where the hell do i get a USA trem (or any other) in the UK?
There were some on eBay looking like being shipped from america were cheaper. (£70?)

But direct from here is more.

Same goes for other parts, it would be useful pinned info for us europeans or otherwise outside the new world.

Considered the MIM for 50 but a trem arm is another 20: i already have the USA arm.

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hexes
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by hexes » Tue Jan 12, 2021 8:34 pm

what arm is this on the right? left is every AVRI style vibrato arm i've had since 2012. the right is from my buddy's 2000-ish AVRI Jm I bought along with the vibrato missing the threaded collet. a new collet threaded right in. Is that arm for a different, older style USA collet, or is it safe to shove this arm into the current AVRI collet?

Edit: I guess all my AVRI systems were just after they changed the arm style to the one on the left around 2011.

Image

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adamrobertt
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by adamrobertt » Tue Jan 26, 2021 7:05 am

Yeah they changed to that left "flared" end when the '65 reissues came out to address "arm flop" problems. It actually works quite well, I have one and the arm is still nice and tight after a year of regular use.

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jorri
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by jorri » Mon Feb 01, 2021 4:54 pm

adamrobertt wrote:
Tue Jan 26, 2021 7:05 am
Yeah they changed to that left "flared" end when the '65 reissues came out to address "arm flop" problems. It actually works quite well, I have one and the arm is still nice and tight after a year of regular use.
I didnt realise the older one would not fit. Is this correct, i just need the flared one for an AV trem?
Also, finding tips seems tricky. I see a lot of tips but no indication of screw or push.

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adamrobertt
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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by adamrobertt » Mon Feb 01, 2021 8:47 pm

I'm actually not sure if they're interchangeable, but I assume they are. Either way, I have to imagine that at this point if you buy a new one you'll be getting the flared version, because that's been the production model since 2012.

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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by jorri » Tue Feb 02, 2021 2:22 am

adamrobertt wrote:
Mon Feb 01, 2021 8:47 pm
I'm actually not sure if they're interchangeable, but I assume they are. Either way, I have to imagine that at this point if you buy a new one you'll be getting the flared version, because that's been the production model since 2012.
I tried with a new trem and it didnt fit. I hope thats the case and that its not a screw in variant mislabelled or something.

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Re: -= Bridge FAQ =-

Post by jorri » Thu Feb 04, 2021 7:14 am

:-* ive got the new trem (american vintage) on without the arm though and must say, what an improvement over my crumbling MIJ.

cleaner angle feels better on the outer strings. And whats this resonance? The arm hole is acting like a soundhole. Cool.

Much recommended. I installed with the flipped screws and glad i did as looks like would have made string contact. Cant wait to try with an actual arm.

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'66 CS JM - Mastery M1 is the correct part ?

Post by Talpa » Mon Dec 20, 2021 6:13 am

want to upgrade the bridge (only) on my 2018 '66 CME spec in burgundy mist bought new/CME. This is my first Mastery buy.

* The floor build sheet shows 9.5" radius spec neck/bridge
* Am using Pyramid 12s (wound 3rd)
so:

Is the basic Mastery M1 bridge (not the thimble kit version) all I need ?
the Custom Shop thimbles s/b vintage spec, therefore correct for the M1, agreed ? Mastery website says the M1 fits all vintage JMs.

did StayTrem ever start shipping to US again ?

Image

thx // jim

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