Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

[bodhi]

It took me while to figure out how rotary switch works. Than it was easy to sketch wiring for what I need. But still it would be great if someone confirm for me if it is correct. Because I'm not sure if I got it right.

It suppose to be 3 way 4 pole rotary switch. Middle position for bypass. Other positions are strangler from Jag and Rhythm circuit simulation.



I chose rotary because it can be used in place of tone control.

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

Aside from that, you don't really need to use three sections of the rotary to achieve what you have drawn out. Since the common for each section is only connected to one of the three alternatives at once, and there is no other path through, the resistor and the capacitor can just be connected to the free connectors in the same sectors, rather than to the neighbouring ones. And that way you don't need the jumper wires for the commons.

[bodhi]

Wow, more than 10 years since my last post here, I'm sorry about that but life came in between etc. I'll surely post some offsets soon as there has been a lot of rotation there!

I'd like som help doing something rather basic. I have an old MIJ Mustang, that a friend has had for years and I just got it back. Thought I'd use it for something fun, as it is already refinished and not a collectors item.

Here what I'd like to do:

Use the three way On/Off/On switches to make two SC sized HB:s go SC/Off/HM. My SC-sized HB:s are DiMarzios.

I'm sure this has been done multiple times before and I'm sure I can figure it out, but no point in reinventing the wheel again.

Perhaps this isn't the best place to post?

Might have been posted before in the thread, and might be a slightly easier way to wire this up, but this should do the trick:



(ninja-edit to fix an issue digitally )

[Shadoweclipse13]

It took me while to figure out how rotary switch works. Than it was easy to sketch wiring for what I need. But still it would be great if someone confirm for me if it is correct. Because I'm not sure if I got it right.

It suppose to be 3 way 4 pole rotary switch. Middle position for bypass. Other positions are strangler from Jag and Rhythm circuit simulation.



I chose rotary because it can be used in place of tone control.

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

We've talked about this a little here. There are a couple people who've successfully made a pot-less rhythm circuit, but I believe that it needs a resistor and capacitor together in some way. I am planning to do this on one of my own projects, but haven't done it yet.

[bodhi]

It took me while to figure out how rotary switch works. Than it was easy to sketch wiring for what I need. But still it would be great if someone confirm for me if it is correct. Because I'm not sure if I got it right.

It suppose to be 3 way 4 pole rotary switch. Middle position for bypass. Other positions are strangler from Jag and Rhythm circuit simulation.



I chose rotary because it can be used in place of tone control.

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

We've talked about this a little here. There are a couple people who've successfully made a pot-less rhythm circuit, but I believe that it needs a resistor and capacitor together in some way. I am planning to do this on one of my own projects, but haven't done it yet.

Hmm, well, one thing that springs to mind is just having a pre-set resistor and cap as a rhythm circuit instead of the tone pot... Depending on what kind of switching alternatives you have available, putting a resistor across the tone pot and adjusting the tone capacitor with an extra one would allow entering the rhythm circuit variations as well pretty easily...

At the same time, a parallel resistor and cap to ground is some kind of low-pass filter like a tone pot and capacitor, so maybe there's some kind of way to scale the 1M tone pot without replacing all the values like in the previous passage...

[Paul_Valentine]

It took me while to figure out how rotary switch works. Than it was easy to sketch wiring for what I need. But still it would be great if someone confirm for me if it is correct. Because I'm not sure if I got it right.

It suppose to be 3 way 4 pole rotary switch. Middle position for bypass. Other positions are strangler from Jag and Rhythm circuit simulation.


I chose rotary because it can be used in place of tone control.

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

Aside from that, you don't really need to use three sections of the rotary to achieve what you have drawn out. Since the common for each section is only connected to one of the three alternatives at once, and there is no other path through, the resistor and the capacitor can just be connected to the free connectors in the same sectors, rather than to the neighbouring ones. And that way you don't need the jumper wires for the commons.

Thanks for the corrections! So, it seems that I let my imagination run a little loose, after all. As for my depiction of the "rhythm circuit," it comes from confusion caused by the JM/Jag tone circuits in schematics. The tone pots seem to be shown in series before the volume pot, while only the capacitor is in parallel. This is opposite to the "normal" wiring where the tone pots and caps are in parallel. So, I assumed it is also the proper placement of the resistor.

Here is an image of the Jag schematics for reference:



Here is the new schematic where I followed your instructions. Did I get it right?

[Paul_Valentine]

It took me while to figure out how rotary switch works. Than it was easy to sketch wiring for what I need. But still it would be great if someone confirm for me if it is correct. Because I'm not sure if I got it right.

It suppose to be 3 way 4 pole rotary switch. Middle position for bypass. Other positions are strangler from Jag and Rhythm circuit simulation.


I chose rotary because it can be used in place of tone control.

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

We've talked about this a little here. There are a couple people who've successfully made a pot-less rhythm circuit, but I believe that it needs a resistor and capacitor together in some way. I am planning to do this on one of my own projects, but haven't done it yet.

I followed this thread because there could be information needed for my wiring and found communication regarding the topic. One user suggested using just a 47k resistor because, according to him, the capacitor didn't do much. But this part I have to test by myself, I guess.

[bodhi]

It took me while to figure out how rotary switch works. Than it was easy to sketch wiring for what I need. But still it would be great if someone confirm for me if it is correct. Because I'm not sure if I got it right.

It suppose to be 3 way 4 pole rotary switch. Middle position for bypass. Other positions are strangler from Jag and Rhythm circuit simulation.


I chose rotary because it can be used in place of tone control.

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

Aside from that, you don't really need to use three sections of the rotary to achieve what you have drawn out. Since the common for each section is only connected to one of the three alternatives at once, and there is no other path through, the resistor and the capacitor can just be connected to the free connectors in the same sectors, rather than to the neighbouring ones. And that way you don't need the jumper wires for the commons.

Thanks for the corrections! So, it seems that I let my imagination run a little loose, after all. As for my depiction of the "rhythm circuit," it comes from confusion caused by the JM/Jag tone circuits in schematics. The tone pots seem to be shown in series before the volume pot, while only the capacitor is in parallel. This is opposite to the "normal" wiring where the tone pots and caps are in parallel. So, I assumed it is also the proper placement of the resistor.

Here is an image of the Jag schematics for reference:

Right, I see what you mean now. I've been confused about that myself, since as you say the tone pot as wired up is in series in front of the volume. The thing to keep in mind though is that the other lug of the tone pot is tied to the capacitor to ground, presenting a high cut (curve) at a specific frequency, and anything below this frequency will still be able to pass through. I believe there shouldn't be any practical difference in sound no matter how the rhythm circuit is wired, but I don't remember if I've actually ever tested this out...

There's a "stray" resistor on the master tone pot which functionally can be in series with the input, but to my understanding that's there to have the tone pot work decently with the strangle switch engaged...

Here is the new schematic where I followed your instructions. Did I get it right?

Yeah, that's more like it. No idea what the resistor in parallel to ground will actually do to the sound. Without testing, I'm not at all convinced it'll have an effect like the rhythm circuit, since a resistor by itself doesn't form an RC network (eg. a low pass filter like a tone pot), and the loading of a tone pot is (probably?) tied to also being connected to the network? I'm fairly sure that you could f.e. use another section of the rotary to connect a ~50K resistor across a master tone pot (lugs 1 & 3), to effectively make it a 50k pot like in the rhythm circuit, but that's not really what we're talking about here... It should be possible to check and compare pretty easily with some alligator clips, if you have some around. For science!

[timtam]

As discussed, the arrangement of tone and volume pots in jags is a little unusual ... most clearly seen in a schematic ...

[Shadoweclipse13]

Rhythm Circuit - Switch only - would this be possible?

I have not done this yet, but this is the conversation I was referring to.

[Paul_Valentine]

That will work for the bypass and strangle switch settings, but the Rhythm circuit simulation is just dropping the volume a bit more (like turning down the volume pot itself). That's not really what the rhythm circuit does, you'd want to connect the resistor across the tone pot itself, rather than in series with the signal. You can certainly do it with the rotary switch by running a few wires to the tone pot lugs.

Aside from that, you don't really need to use three sections of the rotary to achieve what you have drawn out. Since the common for each section is only connected to one of the three alternatives at once, and there is no other path through, the resistor and the capacitor can just be connected to the free connectors in the same sectors, rather than to the neighbouring ones. And that way you don't need the jumper wires for the commons.

Thanks for the corrections! So, it seems that I let my imagination run a little loose, after all. As for my depiction of the "rhythm circuit," it comes from confusion caused by the JM/Jag tone circuits in schematics. The tone pots seem to be shown in series before the volume pot, while only the capacitor is in parallel. This is opposite to the "normal" wiring where the tone pots and caps are in parallel. So, I assumed it is also the proper placement of the resistor.

Here is an image of the Jag schematics for reference:

Right, I see what you mean now. I've been confused about that myself, since as you say the tone pot as wired up is in series in front of the volume. The thing to keep in mind though is that the other lug of the tone pot is tied to the capacitor to ground, presenting a high cut (curve) at a specific frequency, and anything below this frequency will still be able to pass through. I believe there shouldn't be any practical difference in sound no matter how the rhythm circuit is wired, but I don't remember if I've actually ever tested this out...

There's a "stray" resistor on the master tone pot which functionally can be in series with the input, but to my understanding that's there to have the tone pot work decently with the strangle switch engaged...

Here is the new schematic where I followed your instructions. Did I get it right?

Yeah, that's more like it. No idea what the resistor in parallel to ground will actually do to the sound. Without testing, I'm not at all convinced it'll have an effect like the rhythm circuit, since a resistor by itself doesn't form an RC network (eg. a low pass filter like a tone pot), and the loading of a tone pot is (probably?) tied to also being connected to the network? I'm fairly sure that you could f.e. use another section of the rotary to connect a ~50K resistor across a master tone pot (lugs 1 & 3), to effectively make it a 50k pot like in the rhythm circuit, but that's not really what we're talking about here... It should be possible to check and compare pretty easily with some alligator clips, if you have some around. For science!

thanks for insight. I feel I finally need to get alligator clips it helps me with experiments

[gibs]

Thanks for the corrections! So, it seems that I let my imagination run a little loose, after all. As for my depiction of the "rhythm circuit," it comes from confusion caused by the JM/Jag tone circuits in schematics. The tone pots seem to be shown in series before the volume pot, while only the capacitor is in parallel. This is opposite to the "normal" wiring where the tone pots and caps are in parallel. So, I assumed it is also the proper placement of the resistor.

Here is an image of the Jag schematics for reference:

Right, I see what you mean now. I've been confused about that myself, since as you say the tone pot as wired up is in series in front of the volume. The thing to keep in mind though is that the other lug of the tone pot is tied to the capacitor to ground, presenting a high cut (curve) at a specific frequency, and anything below this frequency will still be able to pass through. I believe there shouldn't be any practical difference in sound no matter how the rhythm circuit is wired, but I don't remember if I've actually ever tested this out...

There's a "stray" resistor on the master tone pot which functionally can be in series with the input, but to my understanding that's there to have the tone pot work decently with the strangle switch engaged...

Here is the new schematic where I followed your instructions. Did I get it right?

Yeah, that's more like it. No idea what the resistor in parallel to ground will actually do to the sound. Without testing, I'm not at all convinced it'll have an effect like the rhythm circuit, since a resistor by itself doesn't form an RC network (eg. a low pass filter like a tone pot), and the loading of a tone pot is (probably?) tied to also being connected to the network? I'm fairly sure that you could f.e. use another section of the rotary to connect a ~50K resistor across a master tone pot (lugs 1 & 3), to effectively make it a 50k pot like in the rhythm circuit, but that's not really what we're talking about here... It should be possible to check and compare pretty easily with some alligator clips, if you have some around. For science!

thanks for insight. I feel I finally need to get alligator clips it helps me with experiments

I wanted to be able to switch between the stock rhythm circuit, and where I could have the toggle switch in the rhythm circuit. My first experiment, involved using 500k fender S1 switches and I wired a 50k resistor across terminals 1 and 3 of the lead tone pot (via s1 switch, so when the switch was off, the resistor was disconnected, and when off it was in parallel across 1 and 3) from the computing I did, a 500k with 50k resistor in parallel simulated a 50k tone control. When I compared the lead circuit with 50k, it was super super close to sounding like the actual rhythm circuit. Food for thought.

In the end, I was able to get my brain to comprehend a way to use the s1 switch to physically reroute the toggle switch location to allow for stock and all 3 positions in the rhythm circuit, it required all 4 poles to do this (I think I shared my diagram on here quite a few pages back) but I think finding a way to switch a resister in and out across lugs 1 and 3 on the tone control will get you real close as well. This is what I plan to do for a future build where I’ll use a cobain jag plate and have the slide switch work as a pseudo preset rhythm circuit and I’ll probably reuse my wiring method with a resistor for that as well.