Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

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Shadoweclipse13
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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:07 am

Nvmabee wrote:
Thu Jun 04, 2020 10:12 am
I feel a little bit dumb for not being able to get these images posted properly...

hopefully this works.

These are hosted on imgur. that doesn't mean they're going to show up for you. they show up when I preview this post, they show up for me when I visit on a laptop, but don't when I visit on my phone. anyway... here goes:

Inserted Linked BBCode":
[url=https://imgur.com/tcAxqb7][img]htt ... .jpg[/img]
Image[/url]

HTML links:
<a href="https://imgur.com/tcAxqb7"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tcAxqb7h.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/9RF36xj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9RF36xjh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

in the overall schematic I created I'm NOT 100% what I'm trying to do is possible. Hopefully it's a puzzle that can be solved.
As I mentioned, I'm trying to keep the sliders as the main interface with the guitar. I really like the idea fender had with the jag of eliminating toggle switch that could be inadvertently flipped while playing. In my own guitar I want to celebrate that idea. I say that cuz this is all a lot easier with typical toggle/flip switches.


I think I may have sorted out the (series-parallel-split) DPDT wiring... here's an images of what I'm thinking

Image[/img]


[url=https://imgur.com/Ay2gcdT][img]htt ... .jpg[/img][/url]

I might have the pickup selector figure out.... But there may a dead spot in the middle position. here's my first pass (it's actually my 15th pass but I think this works)

Image

I definitely don't have the double cap 3 position strangle switch - the standard clean and strangle 2 position is easy. it's getting the clean AND the second cap without creating a loop... that is the trouble-maker... worts case scenario the third position is a sort of kill-switch (aka dead spot)

here is my flagrantly wrong 3 position strangle switch diagram. the standard position works, but the additional position is linked to the pole

Image

also, I don't know where the strangle switch fits in the schematic so that it only affects the lead circuit.
Sorry I haven't had a chance to look at this yet. The last few weeks have been stupid busy. I might have some time next week, unless someone else is able to help you out before I do.
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http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Nvmabee » Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:41 am

ZERO worries....

I’ve been working on it in the mean time. I’m hesitant to say that I think I sorted it out - but I think I sorted it out. I’ll post some updated diagrams today. I’ll show the whole wiring diagram and each of the Three switch configurations that I THINK/hope work.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Nvmabee » Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:53 am

I actuallly have a kind of dumb question.

In both curt Cobain jag diagrams early in the thread the “lead circuit” tone pot seems to be in an off place. I’m likely understanding it wrong.

Here’s the question. On a jag wiring schematic, why is the tone pot on the line Coming out of the rhythm/lead circuit switch to the output jack?

If the tone control is in this position, doesn’t that mean the tone pot (on the powers control plate) would color the sound in both lead and rhythm positions? In which case - when the rhythm circuit is engaged- you would have tone control BOTH at the rhythm circuit control plate AND at the lower control plate?

I thought that lower control plate tone pot only affected the pickups when in the lead circuit position?

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by timtam » Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:31 pm

Nvmabee wrote:
Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:53 am
I actuallly have a kind of dumb question.

In both curt Cobain jag diagrams early in the thread the “lead circuit” tone pot seems to be in an off place. I’m likely understanding it wrong.

Here’s the question. On a jag wiring schematic, why is the tone pot on the line Coming out of the rhythm/lead circuit switch to the output jack?

If the tone control is in this position, doesn’t that mean the tone pot (on the powers control plate) would color the sound in both lead and rhythm positions? In which case - when the rhythm circuit is engaged- you would have tone control BOTH at the rhythm circuit control plate AND at the lower control plate?

I thought that lower control plate tone pot only affected the pickups when in the lead circuit position?
On a regular jag, the rhythm and lead circuits are of course completely independent. But on the Cobain as you say the 'Tone 1' pot is in both circuits. This is most easily seen in a schematic of the Cobain ...
Image

And also shown in the switching diagram, where T1 is in all 'Control' options ...
Image
https://www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/Orig ... A_SISD.pdf

I don't know why it was done that way. It might make more sense to have T1 on the output side of the toggle, before the rhythm /lead switch, so that it only functions in the lead circuit like V1 and V2.
"I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar." Rowland S. Howard.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by monkfish » Sat Jun 27, 2020 4:48 am

Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Fri Jun 26, 2020 12:06 am
monkfish wrote:
Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:55 am
Ahoy-hoy. This looks like the place I need to be. Hope you can help me, noobie/basic question.

I'm building a JM with Q Pickups tapped single coils, i.e. not humbuckers but single coils with a true tap- one vintage output, one hot. 3 wires: vintage, hot, ground. I'm planning to do the "both pickups to rhythm circuit" mod using the excellent diagram above but add a pair of switches to select the output for each pickup. These will be DPDT 2 way sliders like the rhythm circuit on/off, I will add these next to the 3 way toggle. I think I understand the rest of the circuit but I'm not sure how to wire the switches. Help!

Cheers!
Image
Found this on the Seymour Duncan site (which is another really great resource for schematics and ideas). If you look at the DPDT switch that the 2 hot wires from the bridge pickup go to, that's what you want (middle lug: common, top lug: vintage or hot, bottom lug: vintage or hot (opposite of the other lug)). That should do exactly what you need it to!
That's fantastic, thank you! Much appreciated.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Sun Jun 28, 2020 9:03 pm

monkfish wrote:
Sat Jun 27, 2020 4:48 am
That's fantastic, thank you! Much appreciated.
You're welcome!!

Update for everyone! For the next couple weeks, I will be packing for an apartment move, and have a vacation mid-July. I am happy to help with quick questions, but I won't be able to do any full schematics until mid-late August.
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http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by CrazyOldHermit » Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:04 am

I have a quick question: Is it possible to wire a 4-way switch so that in the fourth position, rather than both pickups in series, it's both pickups out of phase? Thanks.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:33 am

CrazyOldHermit wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:04 am
I have a quick question: Is it possible to wire a 4-way switch so that in the fourth position, rather than both pickups in series, it's both pickups out of phase? Thanks.
You could do it with a 5-way switch, super-switches, a push-pull pot, or a separate toggle switch, but I'm not sure if you could do it with a 4-way.

Image
With a separate switch

Image
With a 5-position super-switch

Image
With a standard 5-way (though I'm not positive about this one).

I think using a push-pull pot for either the volume or tone pot would be the way to go. That way, you wouldn't have to modify the pickguard or control plate. If you decide to go that route, use the schematic with the separate switch for the switch part of the push-pull. You'd just need to decide whether you'd want it in phase with the push-pull out or in.
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http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by timtam » Mon Jun 29, 2020 1:27 am

There are now 3-way and 6-way versions of the 5-way superswitch. But AFAIK there is no 4-way superswitch.
https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/ ... way-switch
https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/ ... rat-switch
"I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar." Rowland S. Howard.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Jun 29, 2020 1:30 am

Those are super cool!!! A 6-way blade-type switch is nuts!!!
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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by CrazyOldHermit » Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:43 am

Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:33 am
CrazyOldHermit wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:04 am
I have a quick question: Is it possible to wire a 4-way switch so that in the fourth position, rather than both pickups in series, it's both pickups out of phase? Thanks.
You could do it with a 5-way switch, super-switches, a push-pull pot, or a separate toggle switch, but I'm not sure if you could do it with a 4-way.

Image
With a separate switch

Image
With a 5-position super-switch

Image
With a standard 5-way (though I'm not positive about this one).

I think using a push-pull pot for either the volume or tone pot would be the way to go. That way, you wouldn't have to modify the pickguard or control plate. If you decide to go that route, use the schematic with the separate switch for the switch part of the push-pull. You'd just need to decide whether you'd want it in phase with the push-pull out or in.
Hm well the hope was to get all four of the stock Mustang settings on one switch, but that doesn't seem possible. Darn. Maybe rotary switch would work? If not, it'll probably be a toggle for pickup switching with one of the slider switches dedicated to phase.

Thanks for your help.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:16 pm

Rotary switch would definitely work! You'd just need to find the right one. They have adjustable throws where some can be anywhere from 2 or 3 up to 5 or 6 throws.
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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Gordon » Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:54 pm

Not to be pedant, but a blade switch *IS* a rotary switch. :whistle:
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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:59 pm

Gordon wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:54 pm
Not to be pedant, but a blade switch *IS* a rotary switch. :whistle:
True! I tend to think of them in terms of how you use them, not how they are constructed. Blade/lever types are different in my mind that way ;D
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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Gordon » Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:09 am

Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:59 pm
True! I tend to think of them in terms of how you use them, not how they are constructed. Blade/lever types are different in my mind that way ;D
I was just having a bit of fun, I too tend to think they're their own category. :D
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