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Gordon wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:09 am

Shadoweclipse13 wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:59 pm

True! I tend to think of them in terms of how you use them, not how they are constructed. Blade/lever types are different in my mind that way

I was just having a bit of fun, I too tend to think they're their own category.

I figured! It takes a lot to offend me or make me worry like that. We're all good Gordon

Hey folks.

Apologies if this has already been posted, but I was wondering if anyone had a diagram for a Jaguar with both pickups on the rhythm circuit, using the standard slider switches instead of a 3 way toggle. I'm not looking for series or out of phase mods either. I just want it to be standard switching with strangle switch, with both pickups on the rhythm circuit.

Again, sorry if this has been posted, or my explanation is too long winded.

^

Something like this, with standard Jaguar controls...


http://i.imgur.com/tlYRTPR.jpg

Pretty simple. My week is CRAZY busy, but using the schematic of mine you posted above, I may be able to just quickly modify it to have Jag switches.

You are the man! Thank you for looking into it. No rush, life happens, I definitely get that.

Cheers

Pardon me for not looking through the entire thread, which could be a huge downfall and paint me as a total moron, but I’m having a bit of difficulty understanding how to wire my jazz bass. So I’m wanting to add a 4 position rotary selector. I didn’t know what I was getting into, so I bought a 3 pole 4 position rotary selector by alpha. I’m wanting to be able to select as follows

1: Neck Solo
2: B&N Series
3: B&N Parallel
4: Bridge Solo

This will be with a master volume and master tone. My issue is that I’ve found 2 pole 4 position rotary switches in diagrams, and if like to not have to purchase another switch lol. Maybe one if you dudes knows what I’m after so I thought I’d ask. Thanks for the time and help. Direct messaging open also if that helps. Cheers!

indiebassist wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 08, 2020 11:08 am

... I bought a 3 pole 4 position rotary selector by alpha ....
My issue is that I’ve found 2 pole 4 position rotary switches in diagrams, and if like to not have to purchase another switch lol.

No, 3P4T is fine - just leave the 3rd pole you don't need unused. Fender leaves a pole unused on the Ultra JM's 4P2T slide phase switch for example, and also sometimes on the 4P2T "S-1" switch IIRC.

Poles are independent. Each pole takes one 'input', and on a '4T' then switches it between 4 'outputs' (the 'throws' or positions).

You can see how Fender has implemented pickup selection/series-parallel switching with 2P4T blade switches on the Marr jaguar and Am Pro jag (wiring diagrams at link below). The principle is the same.
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vie ... 7&t=110958

Thank you for all of that info! I guess what I’m trying to get at, is that I’m so new to all of this type of stuff, that I would like to get a detailed photo of the 3P4T rotary if that is possible. My only experience in wiring is with standard telecaster wiring and standard jazz bass wiring lol. I’m far below beginner status if that makes sense. If that isn’t possible, totally understand. May have to get one of my electrical dudes to help me understand the diagrams you previously provided. Again, many thanks, I think I’m just way too new to the wiring game, that I may need a wiring for dummies book lol

indiebassist wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 09, 2020 10:14 am

I would like to get a detailed photo of the 3P4T rotary if that is possible.

Switches from electronics suppliers usually come with a data sheet that shows you how the contacts are arranged for wiring (guitar switch suppliers ... not so much), eg
https://www.wagneronline.com.au/electro ... 66911/mfl/



So the tabs for your rotary switch's 3 poles are in the centre of the switch. Each pole has a set of 4 throws/positions/tabs around the outside of the switch. Position 1 is shown above. To verify that you would take a multimeter and see how the connections between each centre pole and the outside tabs changes as you rotate the switch to each position.

So if you have some experience with tele wiring as you say, look at a 4way (2P4T) tele series/parallel switching scheme. Make sure you understand how the 4way blade switch's connections are made for each of its two poles (A0 and B0 in the switch diagram below, and the Fralin site link). Then transfer the equivalent wiring connections from the Fralin series/parallel scheme to any 2 poles of the 3P4T rotary switch. Then wire your jazz bass, as you said you want ... with master tone and master volume just like the tele 4way wiring.
https://www.fralinpickups.com/2017/03/1 ... hing-tele/

That makes a lot more sense to me. Sorry to be so far behind on all of this. Though I’ve never done a tele 4 way blade, only the 3 way, seeing that does make a lot more sense to me now. It’s like adding a third pole to a blade, but it’s in a circle. Would I also use a multimeter to find which pole belongs to which lugs on the rotary? Again, so sorry for being such a newbie lol. This has helped A LOT, and I’m very grateful. (:

Wait, I think I get how the lugs run. Sorry lol. That took a second to sink in

I'm back with this Cobain jag modification.

this is admittedly ambitious for one of my first custom wire jobs but it should/could in theory work.

I'm about ready to revert to a standard KC schematic - in general the idea work but nothing works perfectly:
• I think I have the unfortunate challenge of a ground loop AND missing grounds...
• stuff that should be working isn't - and the tricky business seems to actually work (partially)
• that 2-cap strangle switch makes me want to rip my hair out - the top position works, the bottom position works but the middle clean position is dead... how?
• the pickup selector detail is pulled directly from a mustang diagram... it should work perfectly but when I tap with a screw driver both pups give feedback in all 3 positions...
• the series/parallel/split switch seems to work on one, which is reassuring. if I can get one to work I'll match the other to it... just want to get some advice on how the switch is configured... does it actually work or am I hearing what I want to hear?
• I would be content reverting to two way switches (coil split), standard strangle, and a 3 way toggle at this point, but still need some advice using a 2 way (6 lug) jag switches to achieve this.

I know this is a bunch questions but they are ultimately a bunch of individual questions - feedback on any one of them or the digram itself would be helpful

FYI the four 3-way switches are mounted in a modified bass vi switch plate - which means the pickgaurd is modified and there is tons of extra routed room in the body cavity.

questions are in the image.

Is anyone else able to help Nvmabee? I'm crazy busy for the next week or two for sure, possibly the next three...

Hi all

Help required!

I'm hopeless at schematics and was wondering if anyone can help me out?

My project requirements are:

3x Humbuckers (4 wire)
3x individual on / off switches in series (like Brian May); I have 3x DPDT On/On switches for this
1x Volume / Push Pull for Neck Humbucker Phase Reversal
1x Tone Push / Pull for Bridge and Mid Pickup outer coil splits.

Can anyone help?!

Many thanks

Pearlygates59 wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 31, 2020 10:50 pm

Hi all

Help required!

I'm hopeless at schematics and was wondering if anyone can help me out?

My project requirements are:

3x Humbuckers (4 wire)
3x individual on / off switches in series (like Brian May); I have 3x DPDT On/On switches for this
1x Volume / Push Pull for Neck Humbucker Phase Reversal
1x Tone Push / Pull for Bridge and Mid Pickup outer coil splits.

Can anyone help?!

Many thanks

You can base the thing on the Red Special wiring, just the neck phase reversal is on the volume pot, and leave the other phase toggles out: http://guitarwiring.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... -some.html

The dual coil split should work in such a way that whatever humbucker wiring you have, hook the left and the right side of the push-pull to one humbucker each like this:
Each line is a lug. With that, when the push-pull is in the bottom ("normal position"), the humbucker is working normally, and when pulled up, one coil is canceled out.

The final wire from the humbucker is your hot lead, eg. red, grey and blue on the Red Special wiring image.