OffsetGuitars.com

A post that I read in this forum Inspired me to purchase a used Squier Vintage Modified Jazzmaster and do a little "modifying" myself. I want to play surf so ill replace the hardtail with a Tremolo. Found one on GC's website used and had it shipped. Had all sorts of problems. I was going to Get a refund but I LOVE the color. I explained the situation to the local GC manager and he was cool, So he gave it to me for $170.

Here's the victim. A Butterscotch Blonde Squier Jazzy.


Laundry List of Problems
1. High 20th Fret causing buzz on low E
2. Missing one concentric volume knob
3. Gouge in 8th Fret that caught when bending the High E up.
4. Hardtail piece off-center causing the high E to slip of board frequently


5. NO TREMOLO!


GRRRR!! I HATE THIS Bridge!!!

This is one Battered Jazzy. I guess the previous owner dropped it several times and abused it and eventually got rid of it instead of opting for repair.

Other than the aforementioned problems, the neck feels great and I love the Pups.


I'm a big fan of Surf Music modern bands (El Ray, Daikaiju, MOAM, Bambi Molesters) and some Traditional so I just had to have one.


On to the REPAIRS

I ordered a cheap eBay replacement Concentric tone and volume knob. The Tone knob was too narrow to fit the post, but I only wanted the Volume anyway. Looks Janky, but a quick fix for now.

Next up are the Fret Repairs.

Complete Newb at this, so be go easy on me OK.
First things first. Make sure your neck is flat and straight as possible. I used a product called "neck check" off eBay. Its an aluminum machined straight edge with notches cut out to check both the board as well as the Fret straightness. Also support the neck so it wont bend while sanding. I just used a rolled up pair of jeans near the head stock since I would be working near the body end of the neck.


I used silver solder to fill the gouge in 8th fret. Just a Dab will do ya. Clean the fret first. I used rubbing alcohol because that's all I had on hand.


Then I sanded the solder down with various grits of sandpaper 400. 600. 1200 grit. I got a little overzealous and took off more material than I wanted. But I don't think it turned out too bad, it feels a lot smoother and hopefully wont catch the string when bending. Ill only know if it worked after restringing.


The 20th Fret is High and Causes Terrible buzzing on the low E. Taped up and ready for sanding.


I read somewhere that you can use marble as a flat planed surface, good enough to use as a fingerboard leveler. So I had an employee a Lowes cut up a Marble Threshold in various lengths and slapped some double-sided tape on it. I put a strip of Sandpaper near the top of one end and covered the other parts of tape with cut up notecards the same thickness of the sandpaper. That way I can focus on the problem fret while not effecting the others.
(did I mention that I was Cheap ) I'm trying to fight Stew-mac's tyrannical control of the guitar repair business.

Sand a little check with a fret rocker, keep doing until the fret is just shy of being level.

Nice level top, time for Recrowning.

I used blue marker to tell what I'm doing while arching the sides to a nice oval shape. You want a straight thin blue line at the top without taking off too much metal.

Purchased this Fret file from a local Guitar and Banjo supplier. I dont like it at all, left alot of chatter marks and cuts way too fast. I may invest in a diamond fret File next time or If i decide to build a neck (Mosrite Mark I )


smooth tool marks with an eraser covered in sandpaper of various grits going back and forth over the fret quickly.


Finish polishing with fine grade #0000 Steel Wool I got from Wally World. Looks pretty good.


Recheck with Fret Rocker. NICE!!


Turned out quite well for my first time, I think.


Next up Bridge Replacement

Awesome. Keep us posted.

Love to see how the bridge replacement goes. I bought a VM Special body for a project that someone had already fitted a tune-o-matic to, so this should be informative if I ever do another one.

Hey! Another Louisville guy! I think you're number 5 around here. Welcome! I've got a VM JM like yours that is waiting for some mods.

Cool thread. You're pretty good for a noob! Looking forward to seeing the bridge replacement. I've the HH Jag version of this and cannot find a replacement bridge anywhere for it.

Great thread. Keep up the good work.

Looking forward to seeing how this one comes along! Looking good so far!

Thanks for the encouragement everybody. I'm trying to decide if I should use Oak dowels or If I should buy some of those pre-cut hardwood dowels I saw with the grooves in them. Supposedly they expand when used with water based wood glue.
The Bridge post holes are about 0.340 in wide the closest dowel I have to that are 5/16 in (too Loose) and a 3/8 in. (slightly too wide).

The Bridge holes in question

5/16 right 3/8th on left.
My buddy does custom cabinetry and he suggested that I use sandpaper to sand the 3/8 down to fit. Any Thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.

The VINTAGE MODIFIED JAGUAR has the same 9.5" Fingerboard Radius as mine. I WAS going to buy a modified Warmoth mustang bridge to match the radius of my fret board. The Original Mustang Bridges have that 7-1/4" radius that doesn't match the modern necks. Would have cost around 60 something buck with shipping. until I found this.


Fender Jazzmaster Bridge Blacktop series # 0081239100

It has the same 9.5" radius as my fret board with all the advantages of a mustang bridge with adjustable posts and intonation. Got mine from Darren Riley.

Sand the wider dowel down.

I'm interested in seeing your bridge replacement, too, but just FYI, I was able to add a Bigsby to mine without changing the bridge. The strings just go straight through the bridge holes to the Bigsby. See this thread for pics.

Sinuata wrote:I'm interested in seeing your bridge replacement, too, but just FYI, I was able to add a Bigsby to mine without changing the bridge. The strings just go straight through the bridge holes to the Bigsby. See this thread for pics.

Sinuata I had the same thought cross my mind. I even went to GC to try a Bigsby out ( i think it was an B5 model) certainly looks cool but it just felt all weird and wrong in my hand. I also had the idea of using a different top mounting Trem. I think a Morsite-style trem would feel and look fantastic on a Jazzmaster. Maybe the Hallmark Shade trem. But I think Ill wait and buy one for my Mosrite Mark 1 project.



Sorry about the delay, but I'm getting up the nerve to glue in the Dowels and take it over to my buddies to use his Drill press. Once i glue in those dowels there's no going back. I'm thinking that instead of shaving down the largest dowel by hand and hope I get it smooth all around for a good fit, I should drill the hole just a hair larger so the dowel will have a snug gap-less fit. I really need to find a Good press with at least a 7 or 8 in. throat. But that costs a bit.

I think my Bridge post holes are 11/32" but not 100% sure. Dont own any drill bits that size to relocate/re-drill the holes. Before I go out and try to find a bit this size it would be good to confirm the exact size of bit that Fender uses. Does Anyone Know?

I needed 11/32 dowels to fill the post holes I'm going to fill. Since I could not source any locally, fashioning my own was the most logical step. I used a flat piece of steel and a 11/32 drill bit to make a Dowel plate. The closest size I had to work with was 3/8 inch oak stock. I chamfered the ends with a carpenters pencil sharpener and hammered them through shaving off the excess.



They are far from perfect but hopefully Ill have two straight enough to use.



Now I just have to decide If I should cut them level with the painted finish or just below and level with the rest of the wood.