Help me understand what good and bad fretwork is like

Discussion of newer designs, copies and reissue offset-waist instruments.
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morganp
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Re: Help me understand what good and bad fretwork is like

Post by morganp » Thu May 15, 2014 11:23 pm

Despot wrote:The other thing that you'll see being discussed is 'fall off' ...
It's my understanding that fall away is pretty much only important on acoustic guitars, where there's a tendency for the fingerboard to turn up at the extension, the part that's past the neck joint and is attached to the soundboard. We don't see that ski-jump much on bolt-neck guitars, since there's no extension past the heel. If you envision the geometry on a Fender style guitar, I imagine taking the upper frets down and lowering the saddle height gets a similar result to leveling the frets even and keeping the saddle where it's at, in other words, you end up with the same string height over the frets at any given point. Unless you're taking the upper frets down at a curve (as viewed from the side), which seems a lot like what would happen if you remove relief from the neck using the truss rod. This would result in your action ending up pretty high when you're playing higher up the neck, as it does on an acoustic with some fall away.

As you fret further up the neck, the amplitude of the string's vibration decreases for a given playing pressure, since the string gets shorter while the pitch gets higher; past the 12th fret you need less room for the vibrating string. However, it has been my personal, anecdotal experience with modern Fenders that if there is a high fret, it's usually pretty high up, in the 15-19 range. Not sure why that is; on lots of other instruments we see it in the 5-9 range, where it seems more likely for a fret to pop out with flex. Maybe they pay less attention to dressing up there in the factory? But Fenders seem to be pretty decent stock.

It's also possible that I completely misunderstand what you're describing, in which case please ignore me.

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Ronkirn
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Re: Help me understand what good and bad fretwork is like

Post by Ronkirn » Mon May 19, 2014 4:25 am

the reason ALL necks made require a fret leveling...

When the neck is made, ... there are typically 2 methods used to install the frets... some use a small hammer to pound 'em in, some use a press to mash 'em in, some use a combination of both... and I know... that 3... so I wasn't a math major...

The wood the neck is made of is int a consistent hardness... there are sections slightly harder, or softer than others.. so when the fret is installed, it can seat deeper, or if the wood is harder there, not seat as firmly as other frets.

There is no way to "regulate" the force required.. ya just mash away until it looks properly seated..

So... what happens is, some frets will be a smidgen lower than others...

If, say, the 13th fret is .003 higher, the thickness of ordinary paper, than the 12th fret... the action will have to be set about 1/32 inch higher so that the string, when fretted will "clear" the 13th fret..

.003 cannot be seen when eyeballing the neck along the length... and most have poor fretting technique,, thus assume any neck that 'plays" is as good as it can be... not so..

To achieve optimum playability the frets have to be leveled.. and if yours hasn't been, you're in for a treat... and if you bought a new guitar and don't know it to have been leveled, it has not...

Here's something to get ya started.... DO NOT DO THIS TO YOUR #1.... learn on a beater... < read that again....

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technic" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 101-a.html

http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... preads.pdf


Ron Kirn
“It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.” Mark Twain

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