wproffitt wrote:On the normal channel, input 1, I got 35.8. For input 2, I got 71.8
On the bright channel, input 1, I got 36.3. For input 2, I got 69.8
Yeah that seems OK
wproffitt wrote:-as for the voltage drop between pins 3 and 8, I think I discovered a problem that I might have created. I I do NOT have a wire jumper between these pins. This is because I conflated the 5e3 layout I was using for reference (better detail on the wiring of the PT, etc) with the 5e9 layout. The 5e3 does NOT have pins 3 and 8 of V1 jumpered, so I followed suit.
On the original Fender 5E3 circuit/layout drawing pins 3 and 8 are connected, just like on the 5E9.
Scott are you using the original Fender layout drawings or modern versions?
wproffitt wrote: There's no voltage at the point where these go to ground.
where exactly are you measuring?
One probe should be on earth/ground , the other should be on the valve side of the "25uF capacitor / 820R resistor" .. at the point where the wire(s) come from pins 3 and 8
wproffitt wrote:I also didn't get to the grid resistors because I noticed this ...
these can wait
wproffitt wrote:Should my second 6v6 be glowing like this? I turned it off right away until I had more info to go on. Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help.
Well no I think is the answer ... a nice blue is OK , but pink is problematic (correct RACING ??)
For the moment do you have spare 6V6s ? Just replace that valve for the moment... even if you have two new 6V6s ... because at this stage we are just getting the amp to come to life. When I build amps I never put my final quality valves in, I just use old ones or modern one that I have lying around..
We can sort out later what that 6V6 is doing.
Now if you replace that RED 6V6 and the replacement also glows red then you have wire something up incorrectly... but let's not cross that bridge yet
relaxing alternative to doing actual work ...