Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
- ThePearDream
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
Those are both fantastic! I love how thoughtful you were about your design for the Cossack. A+ for being a good person too.
Doug
@dpcannafax
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- hexes
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
that Kозак is GORGEOUS. adore the graphics and colors and board. holy crap.
- Flurko
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
This thread isn't the most active, but I really don't want to make an account on other forums, so I will try my luck here first
I purchased the Fuzz Factory Clone "Die Factory" from musikding recently, as I wanted to build a pedal from a kit to test the waters of DIY stomboxes.
The build was pretty straightforward, I had some interrogations regarding transistor orientation but after looking at photos from other builders and reading a bit it was pretty clear how everything was supposed to be put together, or so I thought.
But after putting everything together, there's a pretty big problem :
-there's no signal at all when the pedal is off
-if I turn the amp really loud I can barely hear the pedal doing its thing when its turned on, but it's unusably quiet. At least it tells me that every pot seems to be doing its job, so the components must be in the right place.
My multimeter shows continuity between the two leads going to the output jack, which I'm pretty sure isn't supposed to happen.
I can't find where the problem lies, what should I look for ? visually i don't see any components touching each other that shouldnt. I can't see any problems with wires touching near the switch.
Here's a few pics of the guts (not very tidy but it's a first !)
I purchased the Fuzz Factory Clone "Die Factory" from musikding recently, as I wanted to build a pedal from a kit to test the waters of DIY stomboxes.
The build was pretty straightforward, I had some interrogations regarding transistor orientation but after looking at photos from other builders and reading a bit it was pretty clear how everything was supposed to be put together, or so I thought.
But after putting everything together, there's a pretty big problem :
-there's no signal at all when the pedal is off
-if I turn the amp really loud I can barely hear the pedal doing its thing when its turned on, but it's unusably quiet. At least it tells me that every pot seems to be doing its job, so the components must be in the right place.
My multimeter shows continuity between the two leads going to the output jack, which I'm pretty sure isn't supposed to happen.
I can't find where the problem lies, what should I look for ? visually i don't see any components touching each other that shouldnt. I can't see any problems with wires touching near the switch.
Here's a few pics of the guts (not very tidy but it's a first !)
- sal paradise
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
Is it possible to add a tap tempo to a basic digital delay? If so, is it worth the effort/cost?
I have no idea what I’m doing with electrics in general, btw. Keen to learn the basics if it’s eminently doable though.
As this box is so big I was wondering if I could get away with adding a 2nd switch & making it entirely more useful to me…
Here’s the guts, in case that helps:
I have no idea what I’m doing with electrics in general, btw. Keen to learn the basics if it’s eminently doable though.
As this box is so big I was wondering if I could get away with adding a 2nd switch & making it entirely more useful to me…
Here’s the guts, in case that helps:
I have nothing to offer anybody, except my own confusion?
- Zork
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
There is kit from musikding/guitarpcb that could work: https://www.musikding.de/TapTempo-kit
They say it can be used for several delay projects. I suppose it depends on the chips wether it's possible or not but could be wrong. However, I'm sure this is a very advanced project and the documentation is not very detailled on how to incorporate it or how exactly it works. Also, it's a few bits more than just a switch.
So, yeah, not entirely impossible I guess but difficult. Most of those budget pedals use very common schematics that often float around in the DIY scene for years. If you're in luck, the yoyo is one of those. The good people at diystompboxes.com can most likely identify the yoyo if that's the case.
They say it can be used for several delay projects. I suppose it depends on the chips wether it's possible or not but could be wrong. However, I'm sure this is a very advanced project and the documentation is not very detailled on how to incorporate it or how exactly it works. Also, it's a few bits more than just a switch.
So, yeah, not entirely impossible I guess but difficult. Most of those budget pedals use very common schematics that often float around in the DIY scene for years. If you're in luck, the yoyo is one of those. The good people at diystompboxes.com can most likely identify the yoyo if that's the case.
- sal paradise
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
That schematic is scary! Thanks for the links, will go digging and see if it makes sense to start playing.Zork wrote: ↑Sun Sep 25, 2022 9:57 amThere is kit from musikding/guitarpcb that could work: https://www.musikding.de/TapTempo-kit
They say it can be used for several delay projects. I suppose it depends on the chips wether it's possible or not but could be wrong. However, I'm sure this is a very advanced project and the documentation is not very detailled on how to incorporate it or how exactly it works. Also, it's a few bits more than just a switch.
So, yeah, not entirely impossible I guess but difficult. Most of those budget pedals use very common schematics that often float around in the DIY scene for years. If you're in luck, the yoyo is one of those. The good people at diystompboxes.com can most likely identify the yoyo if that's the case.
I have nothing to offer anybody, except my own confusion?
- Flurko
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
Update on my fuzz factory kit problem:
Turns out I just messed up wiring the output jack, as I wired it as in the mockup provided by Musikding instead of doing what I already knew, so the wires were switched up and nothing was working.
Sadly, this easy fix happened after I tired to improve one of the solders joints on the switch and melted one of the epoxy blobs holding the tabs. I managed to switch wires around so I can play the guitar through the pedal and test it out probably, and I love it, but now the bypassed signal is dead, and from some online reading it's a common beginners mistake with those blue 3pdt switches, so I just have to buy a replacement part. At least I didn't screw up the pedal in itself, it works afaik !
Turns out I just messed up wiring the output jack, as I wired it as in the mockup provided by Musikding instead of doing what I already knew, so the wires were switched up and nothing was working.
Sadly, this easy fix happened after I tired to improve one of the solders joints on the switch and melted one of the epoxy blobs holding the tabs. I managed to switch wires around so I can play the guitar through the pedal and test it out probably, and I love it, but now the bypassed signal is dead, and from some online reading it's a common beginners mistake with those blue 3pdt switches, so I just have to buy a replacement part. At least I didn't screw up the pedal in itself, it works afaik !
- hulakatt
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
Posted this one over in the workbench thread too, it's a 3 loop switcher with an end of chain Analogman buffer that can be bypessed.
She/Her
- MrShake
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
- hulakatt
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
Great minds!
Yeah, I laid down a nice base, the black, the striped tape, cut it, lay down the labels and coated it all in about 10 coats of clear. The bottom plate, I sanded, working my way down to about 800 grit.
Yeah, I laid down a nice base, the black, the striped tape, cut it, lay down the labels and coated it all in about 10 coats of clear. The bottom plate, I sanded, working my way down to about 800 grit.
She/Her
- threewordname
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
Total Sonic Annihilation 1.0 clone in an ultimate warrior themed enclosure with LED eyes.
This feels appropriate on a feedback looper. Feel the Destrucicity!
- Atmosfera6
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- shoegaze_head
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
I'm planning to build a klone soon, ordered the kliche mini pcb from pedalpcbs. I've never bought into the hype about the klon diodes being something special, but I would want to get something as close as possible. Anyone have a suggestion? I've heard schottky diodes act similarly but I'm fairly new to electronics so I feel like that doesn't tell me what I should get.
- Dr Tony Balls
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
1. they arent that special, its hype.shoegaze_head wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 8:40 amI've never bought into the hype about the klon diodes being something special, but I would want to get something as close as possible.
2. if you dont buy the hype why be concerned with getting something as close as possible?
1N34A or any other germanium diode will do the trick. Something with a forward voltage of about 0.3V +/- 0.1V.
Instagram: thetonyballs
- shoegaze_head
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Re: The D.I.Y. thread.
I don't think his specific diodes are anything special but I want to build it as close as possible to the original spec, I don't feel like that's mutually exclusive.Dr Tony Balls wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 8:47 am1. they arent that special, its hype.shoegaze_head wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 8:40 amI've never bought into the hype about the klon diodes being something special, but I would want to get something as close as possible.
2. if you dont buy the hype why be concerned with getting something as close as possible?
1N34A or any other germanium diode will do the trick. Something with a forward voltage of about 0.3V +/- 0.1V.
Thanks for the info, I'll look into those 1N34As