Wood consolidators? Rot repair on Jag..

[eggwheat]

So this Jag body has some rot on the bottom..obvilously left in water and it's soaked up the end grain on the bottom..the back, bottom 1/4 is affected...it's been dry for years but the wood has gone soft and lost it's density. Has anyone tried these wood consolidation/hardener products? They seemed to be epoxy based..

SInce it's a fiesta red '62 it's a bit of a quandary......as I dont wanna ruin the finish any further.I could leave it since it is perfectly playable and useable but I worry about dropping it.

I envisage a bowl, 1" high with some sort of liquid product..you stand the body in it and it travels up into the soft wood(as the water once did) and hardens it..without ruining the finish...hah!

[Pacafeliz]

...is it the hot one that came from south africa?!

[eggwheat]

...is it the hot one that came from south africa?!

Sure is..

[antisymmetric]

I remember that one! Possibly cyanoacrylate (superglue) might work? The water-thin stuff really works its way into the wood fibres- maybe use that to start with, followed by thicker, more gap-filling stuff, or possibly use it with sanding dust or bicarbonate of soda to fill/ build volume. I haven't done this on anything as big as your project, but I'd try it. (There's plenty of online info.) Very quick to work with too, bicarbonate/superglue cures very fast. The usual cautions- wear gloves, good ventilation, mask. Last job I did with it, I boiled a pot of water and sat it on the bench between me and the work, it saved me from the usual stinging eyes.

[Hellion]

CA is a good idea. A guy just posted this Mustang on THIS on Reranch this week. He said he had it repainted a few years ago and there was no rot. It may be syphilis. It's also possible that somebody fixed it with something that didn't hold up well.

[theworkoffire]

I would just use an off-the-shelf wood hardener like

or

Do a test on a small area first to make sure you're happy with it - it won't be quite as hard as superglue, but more like the hardness of the original wood, and it comes in usable quantities at a reasonable price. Just brush it on until the wood doesn't seem to be soaking it up very fast - You'll be amazed how much soaks in. I use it for hardening my MDF router templates. And repairing window frames...

The only other thing I know of that is thin enough and comes in quantities that will work for you is knotting solution - basically just shellac thinned with alcohol. I use that for hardening templates, too. It comes in a translucent 'white' version, which won't discolour the wood too much.

The ordinary wood hardener would be best, though. You'll barely notice any change in colour - it'll just be a bit darker.

[eggwheat]

I would just use an off-the-shelf wood hardener like

or

Do a test on a small area first to make sure you're happy with it - it won't be quite as hard as superglue, but more like the hardness of the original wood, and it comes in usable quantities at a reasonable price. Just brush it on until the wood doesn't seem to be soaking it up very fast - You'll be amazed how much soaks in. I use it for hardening my MDF router templates. And repairing window frames...

The only other thing I know of that is thin enough and comes in quantities that will work for you is knotting solution - basically just shellac thinned with alcohol. I use that for hardening templates, too. It comes in a translucent 'white' version, which won't discolour the wood too much.

The ordinary wood hardener would be best, though. You'll barely notice any change in colour - it'll just be a bit darker.

Thanks!...I will try this I think..since the wood is bare it will be easy to do without damaging anything I think.