GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Discussion of newer designs, copies and reissue offset-waist instruments.
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badform
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by badform » Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:52 pm

Good luck with the GFS roller! Let us know how it works for you.

I didn't even consider it because I wonder if the roller bridge will be too tall. With the Adjust-o-matic, I had it nearly down to the body to get nice action. And from an engineering standpoint, it just looks too busy to me. So many little parts. I'm a big believer in keeping it as simple as possible. The more I beat on my guitars, the less I want potential adjustment and/or failure points.

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Crankenstein
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by Crankenstein » Wed Feb 29, 2012 1:18 pm

gutter rock wrote: Maybe, I can just make the roller saddles work on the factory AOM. However, that seems to be risky business as well.
Be very careful, I tried this and one of the roller saddles broke. They are sending me a replacement and if this new one also doesn't fit, I'm gonna take it to my buddy's shop to have the post holes drilled out a bit to make it fit.
Squier Fanboy + Rudeboy!

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gutter rock
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by gutter rock » Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:52 pm

badform wrote:Good luck with the GFS roller! Let us know how it works for you.

I didn't even consider it because I wonder if the roller bridge will be too tall. With the Adjust-o-matic, I had it nearly down to the body to get nice action. And from an engineering standpoint, it just looks too busy to me. So many little parts. I'm a big believer in keeping it as simple as possible. The more I beat on my guitars, the less I want potential adjustment and/or failure points.
Well I tend to keep my action a bit high because I hate buzzing and
I am more a chugger than a diddly dooer! Other than that I really
don't see any more potential for failure than the AOM. The big fail
will be it doesn't fit and I am out of a nights worth of beer money!

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gutter rock
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by gutter rock » Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:55 pm

Crankenstein wrote:
gutter rock wrote: Maybe, I can just make the roller saddles work on the factory AOM. However, that seems to be risky business as well.
Be very careful, I tried this and one of the roller saddles broke. They are sending me a replacement and if this new one also doesn't fit, I'm gonna take it to my buddy's shop to have the post holes drilled out a bit to make it fit.
How far off is it? Might do a bit of drilling myself but don't want
to have it too obvious or ghetto looking! If it is too far off then
pick guard modding would be necessary too, wouldn't it?

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gutter rock
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by gutter rock » Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:22 pm

Okay, so I mentioned that I ordered one of the GFS bridges in hopes of it fitting. In reality, I ordered two of them! Tonight I put them on my Classic Player Jag HH and my Squier Mascis JM. Both were perfect fits and only required loosening the strings and popping them on there. Maybe I got real lucky and I should also buy a lottery ticket while I am at it. Anyway, the action is fine on the JM. The Jag is a bit high right now, but I think I need to adjust the truss rod and straighten the neck a tad because I recently strung it up with 12's and there seems to be a tad too much bow in the neck now.

Don't know if this helps anybody... I suppose it is a crap shoot. I can only say that I am extremely pleased that this worked out for me.

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badform
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by badform » Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:13 pm

Excellent! Glad it works for you. Take pics!

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honeyiscool
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Re: GFS Roller Bridge on CP JM?

Post by honeyiscool » Mon Mar 05, 2012 10:47 am

I put the Wilkinson roller bridge in my Kurt Cobain Mustang. I suggest this route to anyone looking for a roller bridge.

Image
Image

The reason why I like this bridge over other roller bridges is that it's easy to alter the radius on it. Get a can of V8, beer, or whatever you normally drink. Cut up the can with scissors into little pieces. Superglue a few of them together, drill a hole in it (I used 7/64" bit I think), cut to shape and you now have little aluminum saddle shims that you can fit under the saddles. You want the shims to be as large as possible, so that the saddles can clamp down on them without tilting. Should look like this:

Image

Now you can radius the bridge exactly the way you like it. I use no shim on the E strings, 2 thickness on the A and B strings, and 3 thickness on the D and G strings. Seems to work great.

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