Re: Tung oiled necks/bodies, pro's-con's?

Mighty Tom · Post by **Mighty Tom** » Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:37 pm

I personally don't see anything ethnocentric in what I said, but I apologize if I offended you. Your previous answers just seemed really ambiguous, and as a result I've had to re-pose my questions. In actuality, you didn't say "yes, fingerpaint it on." That would have been clear. What you said was "Heh. Fingerpaint," an interjection of amusement and a very ambiguous one-word sentence. One could take that to mean that either you meant "Yes, fingerpaint it on," or that you thought my notion was funny and you were ridiculing it. Given that, the rest of your reply could be written off as sarcasm. Also, "that's what the manufacturer says" is not an answer to the question about significance; it's a red herring. The only possible answers are either "The purpose of applying it by hand is because _______," or "I don't know." Why does the manufacturer instruct the user to apply its product by hand? You clearly do not know, and that's okay. There's no shame in that, so there's no reason to try to cover it up with an irrelevant factoid about how easy it is to clean the oil off. Nor is it necessary to make cracks about my town.

ohm-men · Post by **ohm-men** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 4:57 am

Guys, any alternative for "Naphta"?
I guess it's a petrolium dirived product, but i'm not sure. I read about the stuff as well on re-reanch, but I can't figure out what it is exactly. I looked arround, but I can't find th estuff under the "Naptha" name. So any alternatives I can use? If I get it correct, Naptha is used to "degrease" the wood in order to get it to take the oil well without stanning from greasy fingers. Given the fact that it's petrolium based it's quick to dampen away taking the possible grease with it. I guess any alcohol could do the same?

Thanks.

mcjt · Post by **mcjt** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 6:02 am

tom, i apologize for using a one-word verb as a reply. 'fingerpaint' made me laugh because it was such a simple way to put it and made sense- i thought: "Yeah! that's it, fingerpaint it like a kid!" and in fact, after having done it myself, to fingerpaint it on is perfect.
that's what i meant by saying the problem with this communication is its digital nature. you ask questions i think are repetitive and strange. i give one word answers and say, it's in the manual. neither of us feels like spending an hour explaining anything on SMS or an online forum, and we would have figured this out in 10 seconds in person or on the phone.
and god! no, no sarcasm. i am on this forum because i LIKE you guys! we're here to talk about guitars and have fun!
and no slam against milwaukee beer-i even said i was a beer drinker....

mcjt · Post by **mcjt** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 6:06 am

The instructions (on the can they say USE FINGERS and online they say use a CLOTH- i'm telling you, someone is messing with me!!!!):

Circa 1850 Tung'n Teak Oil is a unique blend of tung oil and teak oil. Tung oil, a natural oil extracted from the nut of an oriental tree, has been used for centuries to protect and beautify wood. Teak Oil is commonly used on teak furniture and boats. Circa 1850 Tung'n Teak Oil combines the penetration of teak with the durability of tung oil. It penetrates deep into the pores of wood to strengthen the fibres of the wood while providing a low lustre, hand-rubbed finish. Circa 1850 Tung'n Teak Oil is ideal for interior and exterior wood.

Avoid working in direct sunlight or wind. Circa 1850 Tung 'n Teak Oil is only to be apllied onto bare, stained, or previously oiled wood surfaces - never over any other type of finish.Use Circa 1850 Furniture Cleaner to remove dirt and polish. Wipe on a liberal amount of Tung 'n Teak Oil using a lint-free cloth. Let the oil penetrate for at least 10 minutes and then wipe off the excess with a lint-free cloth. Wipe again after 20 minutes. Let dry for 24 hours. To smooth out the surface between coats, buff lightly with Circa 1850 Finishing Pads or steel wool (0000). Apply a second coat in the same manner as the first. To obtain a finish that is a bit shinier, a third and fourth coat may be applied, always waiting 24 hours between coats. Exterior wood should be recoated at least once a year.

Soiouz · Post by **Soiouz** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 6:21 am

Mighty Tom wrote: Sorry, but I've been having a hard time understanding your answers. Could be a language barrier. Isn't Montreal a French-speaking part of Canada?

Just as a complement of information, the city of Montreal is about 50-50 English-French. You could be born, raised and live all your life in Montreal speaking not a single word of French (and many people actually do!)...

Now back to oils and guitars!!

mcjt · Post by **mcjt** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 7:26 am

Ohm-men:
Naphtha is too general a term, sorry. it can mean MANY different solvents.
I keep a can of acetone to clean wood of any particle crap that might be impregnated in the fibre. it will dissolve any lacquer residue as well.
you should wear goggles and be very careful because acetone is VERY flammable and nasty.
i use methyl hydrate for removing or working on shellac- french polish.
but the best product to remove oil or prep for it? hmm

can anyone more in the know than i recommend a good wood prep product for OIL to Ohm-men?

Post by **mezcalhead** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:07 pm

ohm-men wrote: Guys, any alternative for "Naphta"?
I guess it's a petrolium dirived product, but i'm not sure. I read about the stuff as well on re-reanch, but I can't figure out what it is exactly. I looked arround, but I can't find th estuff under the "Naptha" name.

The guys at Stewmac use naphtha for everything and I looked for it without success for several months before discovering that in the UK it's known as white spirit, which you can get just about anywhere. I'm sure there's an equivalent on the continent.

Gordon · Post by **Gordon** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 12:15 am

mezcalhead wrote: The guys at Stewmac use naphtha for everything and I looked for it without success for several months before discovering that in the UK it's known as white spirit, which you can get just about anywhere. I'm sure there's an equivalent on the continent.

Same thing in France, should be the same in Belgium, at least for French speakers.

Post by **Orang Goreng** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 12:55 am

ohm-men wrote: Guys, any alternative for "Naphta"?

Try "wasbenzine".

ohm-men · Post by **ohm-men** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:10 am

Well, I'm not sure white spirit is actually the same a Naptha. White spirit is a petrolium based derivate, but it's not vaporazing quick enough in my expirience. I guess "Was benzine" should work better as it is a quicker vaporazing fluid that leaves no staines as White spirit would. I find white spirit due it's pertrolium content greasy. So either Acetone (alcohol based) or Was-benzine' (can't translate this) would be more apropriate.

Thanks for the help! You guys are great.

theworkoffire · Post by **theworkoffire** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 7:16 am

Lighter fluid is the closest you can get off the shelf in the UK I think. That's Naphtha based - the owner of my favourite old 2nd hand record shop in Sheffield used to use gallons of it to clean his stock.

mcjt · Post by **mcjt** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 1:25 pm

Benzene, lighter fluid, acetone..... all EXTREMELY flammable! My father is much better in the shop than i, and when i told him i was working with acetone, he couldn't stop stressing how dangerous it is to use.

Just found more interesting info pages online:

http://www.recochem.com/english/products/faqs.html
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=h ... ersBG.html
http://ezinearticles.com/?Oil-Finishes- ... &id=192573

Lowes says working on oil, you're best to cut it or clean with Methanol- "Methyl Hydrate".

Mighty Tom · Post by **Mighty Tom** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:05 pm

Looks like the IT guys here have blocked all pages having to do with "strippers."