NEW Squier Offsets 2017

[Pat V]

Hi guys,
I got myself one of these beauties and it´s an awesome little guitar
Pat V Could you please tell me what you did to the neck because it looks awesome.

Thanks. Just a little bit of Kiwi brown shoe polish. A cheap, simple and quick process that works well on necks like this.

I just posted a pic this morning on the Squier forum of my Bullet Mustang with Kiwi on it...

https://www.squier-talk.com/threads/top ... 452/page-9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[nevamarcus]

Cheap and simple sounds great Thank you

[travisbrowning]

Just ordered a blue pick guard, a black pick guard, a set of GFS gold foils and the GFS top loader bridge. Can't wait to get em in!

[travisbrowning]

Also, could anyone point me to a wiring diagram for a mustang with 2 pickups straight to the volume and tone? No switches, just both pickups always on.

[borntohang]

Also, could anyone point me to a wiring diagram for a mustang with 2 pickups straight to the volume and tone? No switches, just both pickups always on.

So without a pickup selector either? There's basically two ways to do that. If you want the pickups in parallel like the middle position on a 3 way you can just wire both pickups to the same volume pot lug; if you want them in series find a diagram for a single humbucker and treat them as the north and south coils, so you're wiring the hot wire of one to the negative of the other.

[travisbrowning]

Also, could anyone point me to a wiring diagram for a mustang with 2 pickups straight to the volume and tone? No switches, just both pickups always on.

So without a pickup selector either? There's basically two ways to do that. If you want the pickups in parallel like the middle position on a 3 way you can just wire both pickups to the same volume pot lug; if you want them in series find a diagram for a single humbucker and treat them as the north and south coils, so you're wiring the hot wire of one to the negative of the other.

Yeah, no switching what so ever, I really like simple guitars.

I didn't really think about the series/parallel issue. I think parallel would be best right? Wouldn't series be a little too nasally on 2 single coils? I play in a 2 piece with a drummer, indie rock kinda stuff.

[honeyiscool]

Actually two single coils in series sound completely amazing. When I play lead guitar, I'm in series about 80% of the time. When I play rhythm, I'm usually in parallel.

Also, unless you're going with a more vintage style look, I don't know why everybody's so quick to change the bridge out. I think the bridge performs way better than one might expect. I do think the saddles can be upgraded, but a saddle change is really simple:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Upgrade-Sta ... p_773.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These are drop in replacements. When I say drop in, I mean, you can use the existing intonation screws and springs. In fact, I suggest this, so that you get shorter screws on the E and A strings. I did this. I think it looks a lot better than that weird Squier 51 style bridge with the offset saddles. It's also cheaper than a bent Tele style bridge with compensated saddles, and more importantly, it keeps the string spacing tight. Most Tele bridges are spaced for 10.8mm, not 10.5mm, and usually they don't have any grooves on the saddles, so it's pretty common for the strings to sort of find their own spacing. I like keeping it tight at 10.5mm and everything centered, which these steel block saddles will do. I actually really love these saddles. In a day and age when everybody loves to go vintage bent saddles, I put block saddles on everything. I even have the GFS saddles on my Callaham block equipped Strat style bridges, and they don't have any of the problems that I had when I switched over to GraphTech.

I was really afraid that stringing this guitar would be really difficult with the sharp angles you have to make pulling the string through the back of the bridge and through the saddle, but I found it's not that hard at all. You just take the non-ball straight end of the string and you make sort of a U shape so that when the string goes through the bridge, it naturally wants to come out the saddle. It's really easy. I don't find it any harder than poking a string through the body and hoping it finds the bridge hole on the other side. It's certainly easier than a Bigsby.

[travisbrowning]

Actually two single coils in series sound completely amazing. When I play lead guitar, I'm in series about 80% of the time. When I play rhythm, I'm usually in parallel.

Also, unless you're going with a more vintage style look, I don't know why everybody's so quick to change the bridge out. I think the bridge performs way better than one might expect. I do think the saddles can be upgraded, but a saddle change is really simple:

http://www.guitarfetish.com/Upgrade-Sta" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... p_773.html

These are drop in replacements. When I say drop in, I mean, you can use the existing intonation screws and springs. In fact, I suggest this, so that you get shorter screws on the E and A strings. I did this. I think it looks a lot better than that weird Squier 51 style bridge with the offset saddles. It's also cheaper than a bent Tele style bridge with compensated saddles, and more importantly, it keeps the string spacing tight. Most Tele bridges are spaced for 10.8mm, not 10.5mm, and usually they don't have any grooves on the saddles, so it's pretty common for the strings to sort of find their own spacing. I like keeping it tight at 10.5mm and everything centered, which these steel block saddles will do. I actually really love these saddles. In a day and age when everybody loves to go vintage bent saddles, I put block saddles on everything. I even have the GFS saddles on my Callaham block equipped Strat style bridges, and they don't have any of the problems that I had when I switched over to GraphTech.

I was really afraid that stringing this guitar would be really difficult with the sharp angles you have to make pulling the string through the back of the bridge and through the saddle, but I found it's not that hard at all. You just take the non-ball straight end of the string and you make sort of a U shape so that when the string goes through the bridge, it naturally wants to come out the saddle. It's really easy. I don't find it any harder than poking a string through the body and hoping it finds the bridge hole on the other side. It's certainly easier than a Bigsby.

Hmm, I'll have to do some more research on series/parallel. I'm playing rhythm 90% of the time, with some licks and riffs to taste.

Im changing the bridge just because it feels like the cheapest part of this guitar, and the '51 bridge was only 12 bucks. I feel like these guitars are so new that people are kinda hungry for mod info on them, so I don't mind giving it a shot. I don't hate the bridge on it by any means and I use that same technique when stringing it up to! Its really easy.

[rossi]

i love my new Bullet Mustang I knew it had some fret polishing work and some slightly sharp fret ends but last night I ripped a nasty slash at the base of my index finger .I was playing it at an odd angle and found a sharp part I didnt know was there.Oddly it doesnt notice at regular playing at the "right " angle .i have to take the strings off soon and put new ones in so I will sort it out then .The neck is way better than the genuine Fender replacement 22 fret MIM telecaster neck .The frets are all over the place height wise and it is in the process having a tedious fret level and reprofile of all 22 frets .Other than that its a very good neck but that Mustang is better on first usage despite the finger shredding .Of course if a kid got to play it and hurt themselves their parents wouldnt be too happy with Fender but I suppose we have all suffered from a string nearly taking an eye or finger off
Does any one know of a p90 pickguard for this mustang ?Want to make a Mustang 90 on the cheap .

[honeyiscool]

Hmm, I'll have to do some more research on series/parallel. I'm playing rhythm 90% of the time, with some licks and riffs to taste.

Im changing the bridge just because it feels like the cheapest part of this guitar, and the '51 bridge was only 12 bucks. I feel like these guitars are so new that people are kinda hungry for mod info on them, so I don't mind giving it a shot. I don't hate the bridge on it by any means and I use that same technique when stringing it up to! Its really easy.

There's not really any research to do. It's what kind of tone and output you want from the guitar. I made a demo of my MG73 which has both modes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GFACIcCQtk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Around 2:01 is the parallel position. 2:35 is series position. Going into a tube amp at about the edge of breakup. You can hear how clear the parallel position is, and how powerful and warm the series position is, on a set of Fralin Hot Blues Mustang pickups.

[jonobolton]

I picked up the Squier Deluxe Jazzmaster at the weekend. After comparing it side-by-side with the J Mascis, I'm 100% sure they're the same instrument. The tremolo is in the same position, slightly closer to the bridge, which is a Tune-o-matic. The pickups have the same adjustable pole pieces, and sound identical to the J Mascis. The neck has the same tinted satin finish, and is fitted with jumbo frets, not medium-jumbo as the specs say. It has the same headstock logo as the Mascis, which is slightly different to the one on the VM.

The main difference was that the Deluxe is £150 less than the J Mascis. I still can't quite get my head around the huge difference in price, but I'm not complaining. It's a lot of guitar for the money, and coming from the same factory as the Classic Vibe range and my Matt Freeman Precision, it looks and plays like a more expensive instrument.

[vale]

can anyone with one of the new affinity jazzmasters & a calliper thing (or precise-ish measuring device) tell me the thickness (depth front to back) of the neck at the first & twelth frets (& any others you feel like doing, 5th useful too)? fingerboard (not top of fret) to back of neck.

i'm wondering how it compares with other things i have & also wondering if it based on the affinity strat neck, or the fender jazzmaster neck, or if they are all the same anyway.

thankq kind measurer who can.

[CROSS_guitars]

3D printed Duo bridge arrived today. It turned out much nicer and smoother than I expected.
I fitted it with brass compensated saddles.

It is designed to fit directly onto the Squier Mustang without re-drilling anything.

There is a subtle difference in sound. Slightly more sustain and feels much more stable.











I also tinted the neck and fitted it with Grover deluxe Kluson style tuners.

[HNB]

Niiiiiiice!

[Pat V]

3D printed Duo bridge arrived today. It turned out much nicer and smoother than I expected.
I fitted it with brass compensated saddles.

It is designed to fit directly onto the Squier Mustang without re-drilling anything.

There is a subtle difference in sound. Slightly more sustain and feels much more stable.












I also tinted the neck and fitted it with Grover deluxe Kluson style tuners.

Excellent Job! looks fantastic!!